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Not sure what you are asking, if you are not needing to tune, you don't need the wideband. And the "best" all depends on your set up. If your piggy back or stand alone does not have data logging, look for a WB kit that has data logging. I like the LM-1, it is able to "grow" with you, and...

I was going to say the same thing. Also it's not a bad idea to have more that one new WB sensor on hand to swap out the old one with, they are a "short life" item. And it is way cheaper to buy a few $80 sensors than a new motor.

LOL Ian!

Ok, Ian just made me do a WTF :biglaugh: Now I see what you were saying. JJ, I'm using an EGT also. The key here is to go slow on the +boost. You can't go from running 7lbs boost to 20lbs. Baby steps FTW :biglaugh:

So what would the "home tuner" use? I don't like dyno's as they don't give real world data. A base line is good to get on the dyno, but IMO it needs tweaked in the real world

Thats what SM is here for! :biglaugh: The one you have (NB)? Like JJ said, to keep an eye on your stock sensor to see if it is switching, but if you are at the point where you need a WB, then the WB will keep an eye on it and there will be no need for the NB gauge.

1) yep, when tuning you are the "brain", and it is now in your hands to make sure it is running right;) Just like a temp gauge shows what temp you are at, it can not change it. It is up to you to make the changes. 2) not really

Yep! (Fixed it.)

Yes, it is pretty straight forward, I have not started tuning with it yet, but it did save my motor the first time I started it up by showing me I was way lean. 1) yes, more info can be found about that on their site. 2)Yes, a must. 3)No, it does not control the tuning on the ecu, you...

1)No you also need the controller to be able to read the wide band. The LM-1 has the ability to send a signal to a narrow band gauge for proper read out. But that means you still need the wideband sensor and the controller. 2) If you are tuning, no. If you are stock or there about, yes...

The stock o2 sensor is a narrow band, it is basically a 3 way switch, there is no way to tell how rich or lean you are. A wide band is linear and shows precisely how rich or lean you are so you can compensate in tuning. NARROW BAND: WIDE BAND:

I thought that was common knowledge :dunno: The only good "drilled" rotors are ones that are cast with the holes, only found on some big brake kits. This is dew to the molecular structure of the metal. To help understand, think about a piece of wood, (metal also has micro grain like...

Yeah, NP. I try to help :icon_razz

Sleeper.....

Alright man, I took her out yesterday (over-cast) But I took some pics, (for those of you just joining, pics of under the hood are on page 1 ) and actually got some footage. The vid will come later, it is at my B-I-Ls and will have to go over today and get it. So here are some pics Not too much...

Um... Yes, well over 700. It can reach temps close to 2x that.

Here watch these vids to help out. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/lm101.php

If you have data logging yes, it can see a spike and will register it as lean (even though it would be rich- the o2 reads oxygen, not fuel, so it sees a hell of a lot of o2 (from it not burning) and reads lean. EDIT, oops I was saying a rich condition, from timing or bad plug, where is my...

Some can, some can't. I have the LM-1 (from innovate motorsports) and it has the option of sending a "stock" type signal to the ecu. This is not the best thing to do IMO. Wide bands tend to be finicky and if it sends a false signal you can kiss your motor good bye. Best thing to do is just run...

Nice, if I ever buy a truck, it will be a toyo.