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gixxer Glad that the problem is solved. jdub Yeah, I remember dealing with that plug when I was rewiring everything when i went standalone and as soon as I read everything that he lost, thats the first thing that came to mind, remembering that that plug carried every one of those signals.

Here, this may help also.

The M1 connector in the Pre mid 89 (i.e. yellow plugs) is obviously Yellow and has 10 pins The M1 connector in the post mid 89 (i.e. gray plugs) is well again, obviously gray and has 11 pins.

yep, most likely the TPS needs adjusting. Sound like you are hitting the (what toyota call fuel cut RPM) when setup and working correctly, it to chut fuel of during coasting situations to save on fuel.

When you say that you pulled the dash out, do you mean the entire dash or just the cluster? If you mean the entire dash, then my bet is that the M1 (engine harness to dash harness) connector is not connected. That connector has all the signals that you seem to have lost.

similar, yes. The same, NO. 1st problem is the length is totally different. Remember, right hand vs. left hand drive.

Having TEMS and ABS will not make it any harder. Its the same process except that you also have to unbolt the ABS wheel speed sensor (ooh, 1 bolt per side) and just to make sure that when supporting the knuckle to press the hub out that you are not on the ABS Toothed ring that is on the hub.

Well not exactly yet, but I am getting close. So many little odd and ends to figure out and take care of. I am trying to figure out a way to build headers without the motor being in the car. The clearance is so tight especially on the driver side cause of the steering shaft that I dont think...

I cant agree more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The 1uz fully loaded soppostitly weighs in at 390lbs. I cant say that I have actually weighed it, but several reputible people have stated that, So I am going to take there word for it. I have to say, I think that the LS1 is probably a better package due to HP and TQ output. I would have gone...

Like Jet stated, lube it before it breaks. 99% chance that this will cure the bouncing. One thing to note though as I have had this happen to me is that the bouncing was actually from the speedo head unit itself causing the problem. There is a tension/calibration spring and a rotating magnet...

Yes spinal compression is a definit problem if the sholder belts are attached at any more then a 45deg angle, but 4, 5, 6, ect. point harnesses and roll cages (more then 4 point) are dangerous for street use. Cars (or atleast ones built from roughly the late 70's and on) are designed with...

You are wrong cause you said that A leak would cause it to run rich where as it will actually cause it to run lean cause there is air entering the motor that has not been metered by the AFM. This is why AFM's typically have a bypass screw in them. This allows them be adjusted to correct for idle...

Probably your best bet, or any stand alone for that matter.

Other way around (sort-of). AFM's = lean with less airflow thru them Speed Density = no change. Yes, it would infact cause a lean condition but I dont think that the car would even run cause there would be almost no (if any at all) AFM signal. Pretty much 100% (maybe 98 to 99%) of the...

Jay, you can pick them up for cheap cause there is no demand for them cause they never break and they are not big enough yet in the swap and performance world. I picked up mine for $300, but it was not 100% complete and no harness or ECU cause I'm using my stand alone. I have seen complete...

Thanks man, it would be greatly appreicated. Im not in that much of a hurry, just trying to get all my ducks in a row.

Just trying to verify a clearance issue ahead of time for the V8 swap. My thoughts are that only the earlier subframes have the clearance issue.

Hey guys and girls, does anyone with a late/post 89 car have thier motor out and if so could you get me a measurement. I need the dimension inbetween the two mount stands on the subframe (see basic idea drawing below). Where is shows "Verfiy" that is the dimension that I need. It has to be from...

Or you can use the blocked port directly behind the turbo oil drain location on the side of the block. Its a 1/8" BSP thread just as the normal pressure port is. That location is or well was used as the oil pressure port on the 5M motors and works perfectly fine.