I've done the full '87 NA-T engine conversion.
I got a Japanese block/head and bored the cylinders. The N/A and T block and head are the same. The intake from the air filter to, and including, the upper intake piping are different and the ignition is different.
I had a turbo motor and just...
The tires are the biggest factor braking in braking performance. Tire traction is usually the weakest link in panic braking performance. And the biggest factor in tire traction is the tire width (not the tire compound).
If you use stock size low performance tires, you'll get low traction...
No.
Synthetics aren't economical if you replace your oil every 2-3k.
If you're a fanatic and want the slickest oil available at any price, then synthetics would be your choice.
I personally don't replace my oil until 5k. And going to synthetics would allow me to go to 10k. But at $5 a quart...
There are two types of synthetic oils. The real synthetic type, which are like Amsoil o Mobile 1, and the engineered natural oil such as Castrol Syntec. The real synthetic oils are better as far as lasting much longer and have better lubrication properties. The rated viscosity of the oils are...
I run a NA-T motor with the NA cat and a 85mm HKS exhaust.
I'm thinking the 85mm exhaust is my problem. I guess I could put on the 65mm exhaust I have before the NA-T conversion to test my theory. But that's too much trouble.
I believe when I bought my '87 NA the only seat option for the supra was leather. The powered drivers seat was standard. No option for power on the passenger seat.
Mine almost back fires when I let off the throttle to shift gears or just letting off at high RPM.
Its almost stock GTE. I just have a modified CT26, K&N, HKS exhaust.
The idea of using the thinnest weight oil when the engine is cold is to get the oil up into all the parts in the engine. That's when you get most of the wear because when the engine sits for a long period, the oil coating all the parts start to drain off and you lose lubrication.
I've got the same problem. But mine only leaks during hard rain.
I'd like to find out where you're having the problem. I think its the window seal or the wiper motor. But I can't narrow it down.
I read somewhere adding leaded fuel into unleaded fuel will raise the octane. But will eventually damage the catalyic converter. Lead raises the octane rating. On the old cars that don't have catalytic converters, you can mix unleaded with leaded to get higher octane rated fuel. But I...
I've seen several Mk.IIIs without it and they seem to run OK.
But I recently replace mine with a new factory one.
I had high speed cooling problems without it. I still had cooling problems with it, but it was greatly improved with it on.
I believe Lagged said it.
It should also be noted that octane rating is not really what you might be getting at the pump. Fuel manufacturers test the fuel for octane rating then depending on the test, they rate the fuel. Arco regular fuel has a higher octane test than what they rate it as...
Be careful about JDM motors. The heads could be different. So it depends on what smog equipment you're going to put back on. I have a JDM block and head but the head had the EGR port plugged. So I was able to use the head. Some JDM heads might not have an EGR port.
Also, beware the turbo...
As Jeff said, if you don't get knocking, it shouldn't be a problem.
The car probably really needs 91+ oct as a recommended factory fuel. But in the early days when fuel prices started to climb, and after the gas rationing, no manufacturer wanted to recommend anything other than 87 oct. But...
Good for you Supraman.........
I hope its in good condition. Rebel is a decent camera. But if you can find the 10D at a price you can afford, its far superior.
If you get it, well be expecting pics of your ride........
If you're looking for a used digital SLR, I'd get the Canon 10D before you get the Canon Digital Rebel. The 10D is built like a professional camera and has a lot more functions than the Rebel and even though the pixel count is the same, uses a different CMOS. The Rebel is all plastic, I...
I did the NA-T swap and run with the W-58 without any problems on light mods.
You could also do the NA-1/2T. Where you just add the turbo and leave the electronics/ignition the same.
My suggestion would be find a Turbo in the junk yard to take parts off of. I'd also go with as much...
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