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Hey guys, finally got the Pics back from our little meet that we had two weeks ago... They are HDR, but didn't come out the greatest cause the location and lighting was bad. We were stuck to that location cause thats where one of the cars was at and it wasn't road legal at the time (no exhaust...

If this has been posed before then sorry for the repost but Im not about to go through 117 pages to see if this link is there. A great wheel and tire calculater that compairs two different wheels at the same time... Perfect for being able to tell if a particular wheel, tire and offset will...

In all honesty, if your as you put it "a huge electical dummy", then your better off either finding someone in your area that knows what they are doing to come over and look at it or give you a hand with it or take it somewhere. Its to hard to explain if you are not atleast somewhat familiar...

^^^^ Im surprised that no one has said the cap yet until now.... That would be my first suspect if pressure is extremely high being as how the cap is what controls the pressure..... I'd even more suspect the cap being that it seems as though there is a lot of old equipment and also the fact...

So which is it, does it start or not????? First you say it doesn't but then you say that when it does, it shuts down...... Im confussed.... About it not starting: first thing is to unplug the smaller (10ga) wire from the starter solenoid and put you meter on it and have someone turn the key...

Ah yes hence the "solenoid" terminalogy but from an general electronics stand point, its still just a heavy duty relay.... ;) Still a good point about the plunger part....

Glad to hear you got it.... One thing to note here though, Good thing you pulled the cams.... Yes both cylinders are at TDC, but one is TDC compression going to power and the other is TDC exhaust going to intake so that one would have both intake and exhaust valves open just a tiny bit....

Your welcome, but dont take it to much.... I've been thinking about the whole problem today, and well,,, I'll just say that somethings doesn't add up, but I'll leave that alone... Dont want to start anything here.. And dont want to make Ian mad either.. ;) JJ is a great and very knowledgable...

Haha, funny!!!! I never said that I could spell correctly... ;)

Hell, that was a waste of time typing that... JJ had already said the same thing... I guess I should read the rest before posting....

Ummm, NO!!!!!!!!! The stater technically has 3 connection, the third although is not a wire connection, it is the ground. That connection is made when you bolt the starter to the engine / Trans.... The body of the starter is ground. Just like I said, think of the Solinoid as a big heavy duty...

Its part of the starter!!!!!! The solinoid is the part that the battery cable and ignition start signal wires hook up to..... The Bolt terminal is for the battery cable and the small spade terminal next to it is where the ignition start signal wire goes.. The starter body is the Ground..

JJ, I've always liked you and still do, but honestly, you need to loose the cocky attitude. No, you did not directly say that the ECU was the whole problem but you did directly insinuate that it was. You gave him the flow chart in which would easily lead him to think that the ECU was bad based...

Sorry, I put to much time and effort in ensuring that the ones that I designed, build and sell are a perfect fit and ensure a 100% bolt in operation to put up pics for people to copy. Not trying to be an Ass here, but if you can build them your self, then you should be more then capable...

Also, it depends on where you are looking at the wire as it does change colors..

Yes, it is a black with Blue tracer, but It is NOT a ground!!!!!!!!! The starter has two connections +12V from Battery (positive battery cable) and the 10ga black with blue tracer wire from the ignition switch.. The Ign switch sends +12V to the starter solinoid to engauge the starter. The...

Hmmm, So what happens when it rotts out (especially being in Connecticut and the salt roads in the winter) and its out of production????? What, you have to junk the car now?!?!?

No, custom mounts have to be made for all MKIII chassis... On MKIV's its a direct bolt in using the SC400 mounts and stands, but nothing is even close on the MKIII's. New stands have to be made and if dont correctly, then the stock MKIII's mount (rubber part) is reused.

Yes, custom mounts are needed to bolt the engine in and a custom trans mount too if your going with the 1uz auto...

Running 115, you should be able to add back quite a bit more timing but now that I know that you are still playing with it, that makes a difference.. I was under the impression that you were done. The other thing to remember is that as the torque curve starts to fall after peak, you can start...