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Yeah, have fun with that!

The CSI connector points backwards to the engine so its impossible to see, but maybe you can feel it. For me because the space is so cramped between the runners it was impossible to connect anything to the CSI with it installed, so I connected the wiring and hose up, then installed it in the...

Your head is aluminum, and your block is iron, and they have different coefficients of thermal expansion. That means every time your engine goes through a hot cold cycle the head scrapes across the block because they expand at different rates, The 7M head expands about 0.5mm more in the long...

No one knows what your block/head ra is, so go get it measured, then compare what you have to the MHG manufacturer's requirements. This is a simple issue and any competent machine shop can give you the info you need. No guessing is needed.

Been a problem since day one off the dealer lot.

I feared as much. The torque spec is critical, its only one bolt and its under a lot of stress. Budget to get one of these if you have an automatic transmission since you need to hold the crank still while you torque it...

Do you have a plan to torque it back to 195 ft-lbs? or will we be reading about your damaged crank snout and woodruff key in a few weeks....

See here for temp gauge calibration http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?47479-Temp-Gauge-Calibration&p=656172

The center dowel is squeezed firmly between the tabs from the bolt tension, and the urethane rotates around it, so it needs grease there too.

I doubt it. I'd check the intake piping for a boost leak.

Have you pulled the bushing apart and greased the metal dowel that fits in the center? Poly bushings are notorious for being noisy, and alot of people go back to the factory bushings because of it.

Oil leak is cosmetic, won't cause a no start.

In toyota lingo its an "undercover" http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=5102&P=1 $156 piece of plastic, but what ya gonna do?

Speed is used for idle control and some diagnostics checks, so as JJ said, its worth fixing.

Yes, the factory boost gauge has a very low pass filter on it. I designed and built a better one, but have yet to test it out... one of these days.

Hmm, I expected you would conclude that it was impossible to know where to paint and paint it at the same time

Anodizing is just making the aluminum oxide thicker, so actually worse thermal performance. They also tend to crack when heated above 80C.

Its correct for black body radiation, but an intercooler is primarily cooled by heat conduction between the IC metal and air molecules, so bare metal is best. Since aluminum instantly oxidizes in air, no matter what you do you end up with a coating on the aluminum that is a poor heat conductor...

Are you using good quality tools? Make sure your socket is not wearing out and use a 6 point if you have one.

Another one added to the list. I'm done.