In August I replaced my BHG with a stock HG From Car Quest. Used stock head bolts torqued down to 75ft. lbs. and decided to go this route after reading SM threads. Only problem I have now is RK. Top of motor is just fine and everything is stock including boost. Runs like a top.
Try this. Set the timing marks one tooth ahead of the timing marks with the tensioner off the belt. Then put the tensioner back on the timing belt and tighten. You should be dead on. BTW new timing belt cost about 20 bucks definitely a cheap and worhwhile investment.
This is what u do. Buy a black pod and some interior plastic brown paint and paint the pod after a light sanding. Light sand again and paint againg using brisk strokes. Repeat if neccesary like this post until u r satisfied w/results.
This was already posted in another thread about the same topic, so I will repost. Check Road&Track Nov. issue on page thirty something (I think page 36) there u will see the picture of the next gen Supra. It will be built off an existing RWD platform the Lexus IS. It soon come.
[. He says the temp spikes caused by air bubbles, which also cause too much pressure so the coolant overflows.
He says 1200 labor, about 3-400 for HG (maybe going MHG, what are the pros and cons?), and another 400 or so for machining. He's also gonna adjust timing, valves, etc..... Price...
Castrol Synthetic 10w-40w only 'cause I live in cold Ass MI. Would recomend Mobil 1 15w 50w if u live in a mostly warm climate. Temps that don't go lower than 32 degrees farenhgt.
It was hard to stop from cracking up the moment I read this! Hell I'm still laughing 'cause this is better than Yo Mama jokes.BTW "blinker cream" can be picked up at any sex shop it usually next to the dildoe dept.
Power steering is for girls lol my pump went out on me and I removed the belt to it and the AC. But I don't like parallel parking, what a bitch. Now when I go to the gym I just do lower body::biglaugh:
WD40 aint gonna get it. Get some PBlaster spray and leave it for about a half hour then try it again. Also try an open end 12mm and go from bolt to bolt even if their acting like they don't want to break.
Final answer. Yeah u can as long as your replacing the hose then slit the hose as much as u can going toward the rad then pry that beyaatch off.:icon_razz
If u have access to some large pliers like 20 inchers put them on the hose where the male part of the rad is. Without applying to much pressure as not to damage the outlet or male part of the rad start twisting the the hose around once it starts spinning take a smaller set of pliers and pull on...
Welcome to the MI. club and congrats I second DR.Jones's sentiments. I'm not sure exactly where your located (I will check my map 2 nite) Hopefully a group of us will be able to get together before hibernation time sets in.
I'm down for whatever whenever. Like the sound of a bonfire just need a heads up a few days b4 it happens. If it's gonna happen we better do it quick won't be much longer b4 that ugly 4 letter word starts falling from the sky.:aigo:Then we will have to convert our Supra's to snowmobiles...
Sorry I got here late on this subject but like my peeps said stay the fu.... away from Bullsh......Bosch. Go N to the G to the muthafu@#!KKKKKK. NGK like I said b4 don't get it twisted.:biglaugh:
This is a common problem with a simple fix. Locate the hard vaccum line that runs across the firewall going from the driver's side to passenger. Hint its the only hard vaccum line.
The line runs into an actuator on the passenger side. It is very common for this hard line to break or somehow...
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