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Dude, the passenger side window is not going like, up? Check the motor and then clean the switch! gl. ,Like

Do a search, bro. This has been covered alot. If you have specific questions after you read up, you'll get much better response if people know you did your homework... gl.

They won't refill R12 in Canada anymore, hopefully they are more liberal where you live. When I got mine retro'd, they had to replace seals, dryer, and a new expansion valve. I had already replaced the compressor, so all in all, it was a very painful upgrade. In the $800 neighbourhood. gl with...

Here's my old car with the stock fives.

I hate like hell to say it, but if time and money is an issue, perhaps shelve the idea of "fixing it quick". Find a beater to get you around, and plan for a slow, meticulous engine rebuild. Or find a big bag of cash and buy a bottom end that's already done. That way you can mate your newish head...

I'd rebuild it. Those engine resellers might replace it if it's toast, but they don't pay for re and re, so it turns out to be alot of work. If you rebuild it yourself, you know exactly what's going on inside... If you have a good place, tools, engine hoist, engine stand, patience, and lots of...

Ummmm, it's a 20 yr old p.o.s.? Yank it and get a real alarm with a hidden kill switch. Maybe a loJack too, if you are going to keep it. gl.

I believe the extra counterweights caused it to redline 500 rpm slower stock, but be "smoother" ... of course you could have the best of both worlds if you shaved the 7m crank like Ian! I don't think too many 7M owners have the resources & savvy he does, though.

I'll defer to you on that Ian, I meant more like nothing fundamentally changed with config. I know they are "beefier". But all the parts fit still, is what I was referring to.

Aside from small differences in the head & block casting, "more" counterbalanced crank, motor mounts, slightly different sensor config, and tb, it's basically the same engine. As long as you use the sensors, tb, and water neck from the old one you should be good to go. Jdm has some different...

Probably not, but there's nowhere around here that does it... was curious to know prices there.

Hey Ian, how much does it cost to get a crank polished and nitrided there? I can't find anyone local here in Vancouver BC that does it...

^^^ Umm, apparently the codes are now 0,0,0,0,0,0,. That still sounds like security alarm wonkiness to me. I'd yank the factory alarm and put in a good aftermarket one. gl.

If you buy a Supra, save a huge pile of cash for repairs. Then double it. If you are going to do a rebuild anyways, replace everything while you are in there. You only want to do it once. If you aren't a good mechanic, find the right shop to do it for you. Or there will be financial pain and...

I'd change out the fuel pump, and do the fpd removal as well. You never mentioned the j-tube, is it eliminated or drilled out? With a new fp and no restrictions to fuel path and return, perhaps fuel delivery will be more regulated. I have basically the same mods, and see leaner closed loop. It's...

Yes, sure sounds like it. Do a coolant test. It will tell you for sure. gl.

Try keying the driver's door open and closed 4 or 5 times in a row. Iirc, it will reboot the factory alarm. gl.

Check for codes, I'd look at vacuum leaks, and the tps first. gl.

With the Lex/550 combo, it's good to have the safc and a wideband for tuning. Stock air/fuel components makes it hard to raise fuel cut, even with an safc. It mostly serves to tailor fuel to your upgrades. afaik.

If you are going to all the trouble of those mods, then upgrade the fuel pump and the injectors as well. The Lex and 550's are done a lot, as they are both approx. 25% bigger so it balances out sorta ghetto. Don't forget to drill out your j-tube! gl.