http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4039054478737570514&q=pinks&pl=true heres the link for anyone that doesn't get the Speed Channel. I'm watching it now.
EDIT- That host makes me laugh, he looks like some kinda hard core turtle. :lol:
EDIT- Ouch! Thats the best episode yet!
A broken ByPass Valve is just like having a boost leak. I would recommend the Bosch Valve as PDR said. You will have to get some new hoses to use this part as the inlet and outlet are bigger than the stock valve.
Meaning you already jumpered the T and E1 terminals in the diagnostic box, turned the key to the "on" postition and the Check Engine Light was blinking steadily?
Thank you Bishop, your input is much appreciated. A compression test is in order, I was thinking along the same lines. I have a tester but the end that goes into the plug hole isn't long enough for the gauge to clear the valve covers, I need one with a hose type deal on it.
Yea, on decel it reads about 22-23 depending on RPM. I'm really close to buying a Greddy gauge, theres a dealer that is offering them in PSI for 140 on Ebay.
I know that vaccum on the 7M is usually around 20 in.hg. But over the past few months when I start my car up and it is cold I get a reading of 17.5-18, but after she warms up its about 19.5-20.5. I don't have any leaks. Motor has close to 160k on it. I'm also thinking that it might be my boost...
Yes, I put in 6 quarts every oil change. Somewhere in IJ's rebuild thread he measure that a stock oil pan will hold up to 10 quarts without the oil touching the crank. And yes it is bad to have too much oil in an engine, I believe because the crank will stir up the oil and cause air bubbles...
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