Search results

They're not turned, they're ground ;) Well, at least if you want a good job. Any place that does it right will know what the backstep will have to be.

Turbo 911 = 930 Yeah, they have around that number (stated number is 260HP). It's also old so it might be down on power, but he does have weight transfer in his favor. Kind of a cool car though.

"Brand new" usually means "rebuilt" and yes, they can screw it up. Seen it many times...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=ST&P=8 The real contact is inside there, they just tell you to replace it instead of rebuilding it. You can clean it up and make it work, but rebuild or replacement is the best way.

Yes exactly. It's already a relayed system, fix it. Not to mention the real power connection takes place inside the starter...

Might want to research it a bit better, you're adding a relay to a circuit that already has a relay. i.e. you're hacking the wiring for no reason

If it's anything like the 7M, you cna use a multimeter (one with a needle works best) and watch the jumps. It's in the TSRM, but dunno where an online version for the 2J is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikHe_8LBT5U Also, random musings of my own... How fucking hard is it to buy and use the proper screwdriver for the job? I mean really, it's only a philips head, and it's only the most common size, yet you seemed to have stripped them all...

Shouldn't it be "come to bed?" Or is someone in the dog house? :rofl:

Some cars are a bit different, like the Miata. While it's a double wishbone suspension on all 4 corners, it's also a convertable so the STB seems to have some effect. They came with them from the factory, and I don't see them wasting money on them...though one never knows.

I've seen fuses corrode and look fine but be bad. Only way to really know is to test them with a meter. Yes, that wire is the positive and it's connected to the fuse. Usually when the fuse blows the light is very dim. It's probably a wiring issue, but you'll have to hunt it down.

People are stupid. I always laugh at it, because I can very quickly show how stupid they are. Me: Here, what does it attach to? Them: The strut towers. Me: Yes, and what's stressing them? Them: The struts. Me: What force? Them: Oh, it presses in and out. Me: Oh, really? How does it do that...

If you think that's funny...

Rent the tester. But I'd be looking for leaks first as you generally won't have steam coming out from anywhere but the overflow if it's a BHG. Sounds more like you popped a hose, though that overheat could have caused a BHG.

If they're of the same size, you could also just swap the ballasts and leave the fixture (ballasts are wear items just like the bulbs)

Only place I know of that has them is the dealer :(

I'm sure if someone wanted to make it fit, it would fit :)

It's not fuel cut or you'd have a stored 34. Code 24 sounds like a wiring issue to the AFM, and code 12 could be issues with the CPS (likely wiring).

Bet that big buttpad helps a lot :rofl:

You checked the fuse, but it probably need to be replaced (and the wiring issue fixed). Out headlights are switched ground with a common positive, they're not local grounds. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=060