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Mine cost just under $800. That included removing 3 dents and an extra clear coat. It was the 1/2 price "presidential" at Macco. It's not perfect, but it's 95% better than it was before. And it's holding up almost 3 years later.

Thanks for the info amichie. Looks like cam gears are on my buy list. As for the clearance on the shims: I just kept the clearance within what the manual said. Can't remember what that was off the top of my head.

Yeah, I believe to decrease overlap, you need to advance the exhaust and retard the intake. And yes, Zazzon is right, lots of overlap will help mid to topend power but hurt idle and low speed drivability.

Thanks for the suggestions. I did disconnenct the battery for a minute to reset the ECU. I also tryed to check the timing. With the T and E terminal shorted, I was at about 15-20 degrees with me trying to get the idle as low as possible before stalling. So it's probably not an accurate...

The 97 and 98 supra twinturbos were right around $40-42,000. That was after Toyota decided to lower the price $10,000. I remember seeing the window sticker of a 95 twin turbo at just over $50,000.

Intake and exhaust cam gears are at 0 degrees. I do not have adjustable cam gears (yet). I figured it should run right with them at 0 since that's what BC reccomends. "side note: stock injectors are 440's" Thankyou.

Just installed my built 7M-GTE with BC 264 cams.(Still on the stock ECU and AFC). For some reason the car will not idle. It will keep going if I step on the gas, but it will fall into a very rough idle and die. I know there could be lots of things going on, but I went over just about...

No cats, no rear wiper, no electric anntena, no spare tire, light weight battery, removed the wood in the trunk.

I went to a supra meet last spring. As usual it was mostly MK4 supras and only 2 MK3's including me. What I noticed was that most of the MK4's there were really showing age (faded seats, worn down carpet, faded paint). My 92 MK3 looked just as good or better than some the MK4's there. It amaises...

Still a wasted effort.. You will get huge gains with an aftermarket turbo on the stock manifold, but not much gain at all with a stock turbo on an aftermarket manifold. Not to mention you will lose response with a tubular manifold.

If you want quiet, get the Tanabe. Straight through Stainless steel 80mm piping. Sounds great, but its almost too quiet for me.

Got mine done at MAACO almost 3 years ago. Still looks great. Got the presidential for half price ($250) and requested an extra clear coat for about another $120. With the paint job and most of the dents pulled, I paid $790. Definantly not a perfect job, but still looks great and its holding up...

Looks really nice, and the price is fair.

I love how these JZ boyz are coming on here and saying how much eisier the 1JZ is to work on over the 7M because of the spark plugs. Try comparing replacing fuel injectors. I swapped out the injectors on my friends 1JZ and I literally could not get my big hand where it needed to be around the...

/\Yeah, that would be a much better comparison.

Should be night and day difference when you get a fresh 7M in there.

Time to go 1JZ.. And then you can blow that up too.

M3's are quick for 240hp(195rwhp). They are fairly light(3250)and geared very short. I had a great race with a late 90's M3 back when I had my SP61GT. I didn't even feel like racing but he kept reving at me at the light. Even gentally launching, I still spun all the way through second gear...

Is this a science project or are you really trying to make the engine run right? Are you planning on making 900+rwhp with a SAFC?

Wow, thanks a lot. That is a good sit for silicone.