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"the regular C6 vetter is only a ~12.8@110 car" Actually the 05-07 C6 will run 113-114mph traps bone stock with a manual. 370rwhp in a 3600 lb supra would make it a very close race. Good kills.

Wow, I just got your PM. Great numbers!! Better than I expected.. I noticed that GT40's seem to make lots of power at low boost. Probably because of the fairly big exhaust wheel and housing. Does look a bit laggy, but still 564rwhp at 21psi is outstanding. Goes to show how strong a freshly...

I think 66-67mm turbo is a good size for building a 10 second car. Both will be capable of a little over 700rwhp maxed out. Figure with average to above average driving on a manual supra, I believe you need at least low 600ish rwhp to get you in the 10's.

"The FCD is just not worth the risk. Especially if you dont no what your doing." And if you don't no what you're doing, you should only be doing exhaust and intake mods.

If you want quiet, go Tanabe. See 935motorsports for sound clips.

If you do get a FCD, make sure you are monitoring the air/fuel ratios. I have been running an FCD for years along with my LEX afm and AFC. On my car, I would get lean at around 25psi with no way to adjust for more fuel. It was fine at 24psi and about 485rwhp, but after that I believe the AFM...

It really depends on how much you drive your car and if you plan on driving in the rain. The Nitto DR's are a good compromise between an every day tire and a drag tire. The BFG's and MT's are grippier for the track and street, but you will be lucky to get 5K miles out of them and are dangerous...

You will get the most miles by far with Nitto 555 DR's. That's what I'm going with soon.

"Its because supra owners cheap out making us look bad when it fails." This is pretty much the answer. I go to supra meets all the time in MD and it's dominated with MK4's and lexus's. I'm usually the only person with an MK3. The funny thing is that I get nothing but compliments on my...

I had that problem with my BC264 cams. Every time that I went to push in the CPS it would jump a tooth. I couldn't figure it out until I pulled the CPS cover off to see what was going on. I really had to come in at an "off position" to get it to stop jumping off.

Ebay manifold?

Sounds like a good plan. I will try to make it and race. Even if I have to baby my car out of the hole(don't want to break so far away from home). Gotta start representing the underdog MK'3's..

My HKS standard wastegate is as old as dirt and it works perfect. It actually held boost more prdictably than my Tial 44, but that could be due to the different manifold I had on. I can't imagine how those Chineese wastegates are gong to hold up to extreme heat over time. Very scary.

I read on Supraforums that it takes $1000 to make 1000rwhp on a 2JZ and $100,000 to make 1000rwhp on 7M. Is this true? Because I believe.

I know on 2JZ's block filling is comman practice when pushing over 1100rwhp. I bet Milbrum can give some good answers on what it takes to make 1000rwhp on a 7M. I do remember he was using the stock block and crank with lots of head work. Here's another idea if you need 1K hp...

/\The shop price was $1000 for Eagle rods and Arias pistons together, so I'm just guestimating on the $550 price.

My Arias pistons only cost about $550. The shop that built my 7M which deals with all kinds of forged pistons recomended them because of there tight tolerances. (Maybe they have a special deal with Aria, who knows?). Ross pistons are heavy and I have heard of them having piston slap when cold.

I just switched over to a 6M crank with my new rebuild after having a 7M crank for 5 years. With the 7M crank, it is smoother, but it's not a night and day difference. It still makes the same great sound that all MK3's make. With my new rebuild, my pistons rods and crank are all lighter, and yes...

Gmokez, a stock ct-26 will max out in the low 300rwhp range at about 15psi(Going with higher boost won't help much). It seems the safest and most cost effective way of achieving this is with the 550 injectors and lex afm along with a SAFC for fine tuning. Of course you will need the usual...

For a mild setup like you're suggesting, tuning will be very easy. You will just need something simple like an AFC to tune the proper air/fuel ratios. Just about any shop with a dyno can tune with an AFC.