^^^ Those would be your power wires for your fuel pump. Better hook both of them up to your new pump, or your new pump won't work. ;)
You are correct. The short blue wire is the ground, and where you connect your black wire to. The long blue wire is your +12V, and where you connect the red...
I thought about doing the 12V mod, as I upgraded to a Walbro when my stock pump died on me. I just have two questions though.
1. Do you need an AFPR before doing this mod, or can the stock FPR keep the car from running rich with the extra pressure at lower RPM's?
2. The stock fuel pump relay...
Thank you! I'll check that out. That at least tells me that even if my ECU were dead, the oil pressure gauge should work. Since I lost both, I'll bet the problem is with this harness.
I'm still trying to figure out all of these splices on this harness. I'd bet everything that all of my...
This might sound like a dumb question, but what's MIL?
EDIT: Nevermind, I've always heard it referred to as a CEL instead of a MIL. I know the light is good, so I'm not getting power to the ECU like I should.
Also, would losing power to the ECU also cause the oil pressure gauge to quit...
UPDATE: Everything the car was doing while cranking indicated that the ECU wasn't receiving the IGf signal while cranking. The injectors would pulse twice, then stop. The only weird thing was, if it was lack of an IGf signal; I wasn't getting a code 14 like I should have. That said, testing...
Ok. All of the codes are clear, except for the code 51. The TPS needs to be replaced, as it doesn't pass the tests per the TSRM. Once replaced, that should cure the code 51.
The problem is with the firing of the injectors. The injectors fire when the engine first starts cranking, but quit...
There was a thread that was posted last October from a guy that worked at a shop that could make a ratio-adapter for your speedometer, and make it accurate again. Might be worth checking something like that out, that way your speedometer can stay accurate no matter what changes you make to...
I noticed that there's some confusion with the first picture. I have an extra connector hooked up to the cold start switch in that pic. That's just an extra connector I had, and I was test fitting it to make sure it fit the cold start switch just in case I have to wire it into this harness...
Thanks, JJ. You're a huge help figuring out this wire mess. It does appear as if I had the ECU temp sensor plugged into the wrong thing, as I has it hooked up the the cold start switch.
Do you know what color wires I'm looking for to hook up to the cold start switch? I still have a gray &...
^^^Why didn't I think to check for codes?
The codes that showed up are:
14 - Ignition Signal -->There was a short period before we got the car to start where the coils weren't firing at first, but they're firing now.
22 - Water Temp Sensor Signal --> This code isn't surprising, as I still...
Update: The cold start injector isn't firing. A test light shows that one side of the connector to the injector is hot while cranking the engine, but the injector itself doesn't fire. I switched the CSI for a known working injector, and it still doesn't fire.
Update on post #26!
I'm just finishing up my GE to GTE swap, and I'm having trouble getting the car to fire up. The engine turns over, fires a few times, but dies before it has a chance to start. After that, as long as you continue cranking the engine; the engine will crank over but not even...
I'm running Evolution X on my modded XBOX, and it'll do everything I want it to. For media, I'm using XBMC, plus I have quite a few emulators with games + XBOX games on the hard drive.
I do have a couple of different dashboards installed (can't remember which ones ATM); but the one I use the...
You do realize that you spend the $75 for the bypass filter once, don't you? Once you purchase the bypass filter, you only need to change the filter media when it needs to be changed.
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