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Catch can: Fuzz, I have the genuine GReddy catch can, it's not worth the money. I have the smaller version one, I had and still do have the larger version of it, except it's made by OBX, same damn thing. You can't open up the larger version of it without cutting it. The smaller one though, is...

Try out Penzoil Platinum 5W 30

The AFM is most like running shitty as there isn't the correct amount of air traveling across it without the honeycomb in front of it and from the general shape of the AFM housing. In other words, you need to keep it in the housing.

They flow match and clean the injectors, possibly resize them, not sure. I'm thinking it's a company like Denso, but not entirely sure on who makes them first off.... Edit: I think it's actually delphi or siemens... :dunno:

I could get it to about ~1500 RPMs then it would start making a big fuss. This is very slow acceleration also. Must be a type of *limp home* failsafe in case of AFM failure...

:wavey: I've done it before too Ian ;). I'm not affraid to admit it, lol. The Supra will run without the AFM plugged in *if * there isn't any other major issues with the car, just don't expect the car to get up and go anything like it would with if plugged up.

If you decide not to go that route, Lokar (sp?) makes throttle cables, it's a custom fit proceedure though, but shouldn't be anything heart stopping about it. You just need to know what type of cable you'll need and how long you need it. A custom throttle cable bracket is most likely going to be...

No, it's not that, the causes that I've seen other people attribute to this on the forum I frequent on that car are: The crank keyway has some slop in it, or the dampner is old (most people are reusing this part, which IMO doesn't need to be done on an engine with +150K miles on it.

NEVER touch the sensor on the AFM with anything unless you know the proper way to clean this specific sensor or you will most like tear it up. If you want to clean the housing, take the sensor out first, and make absolutely sure that the housing is dry, vapor free when installing the sesor...

4.30's or 3.91's most likely. The 4.10 American version is an opend dif. (spins just one tire).

Rotors, brake pads, ss brake lines, ss clutch hose, silicone vacuum hoses, samco radiator hoses, Toyota full gasket kit, ARP studs, MHG of your choice, Stant t-stat, AL radiator, rebuild the fan clutch, re-ring job, block and head prep for MHG, resized rod and main bearings, ARP rod bolts, ARP...

Did you check to make sure you put the oil pan nut back on after the change, or the oil filter for that matter? You're pouring it in and it's not showing on the dip stick? Are you sure the oil just isn't very clear? Check under your car for signs of leakage. Car smoking when running?

You sir, have a rodent in there complaining about the engine running while it's trying to sleep in it's nest ;).

Stant superstat 180* or 190* (the stock rated one).

You need to grow a thicker skin on here and stop complaining because you *think* someone is being sarastic to you on here. Internet speech is hard to decipher without the use of emoticons ;). See? With that being said. Do an advanced search in the Reference/tech-tips section on here under...

I have no problems with carbon deposits on mine personally, I think it has to do with the RSR GTII I use though...

I was going to say something similar ;).

Like Ian said, a new dampner is most likely what would be needed, especially if your goal is higher HP ratings...

Don't drive the car. It's most likely a rich mixture of fuel dumping out without being cleaned via a cat.

I think the Scion TC copied the design of the roof on that thing ;).