Search results

with the epc of course.

looks like it's this one for sale in another thread if i'm reading it right, part number is 89661-30620 that number matches up to an october 91 to august 93 crown, jzs131 or a crown/majesta jzs141. my epc shows that neither of those models came with a 1jzgte engine.

gimme the part number off that ecu and i'll tell you what it came out of.

if the fpr is doing its job then there would still be a momentary surge in fuel pressure right when the fuel pump switched voltages. my theory is that the ecu is trying to compensate for something it thinks is going to happen but doesn't due to the fuel pump running at 12 volts all the time...

ok, i'm trying to work out a theory on this. if this is the rpm point where the ecu switches the fuel pump from 8 to 12 volts it may be expecting a surge in fuel delivery or sudden short lived increase in fuel pressure and therefore ease back on the injector pulsewidth. if this theory is correct...

is your fuel pump wired to run at 12 volts all the time?

you did plug your laptop into the stinger to make sure the programming was still intact didn't you?

this just in, it seems the fuel pump ecu is nothing more that a relay and a few other electrical dodads, seems to do the same thing as the 7m fuel relay. at lower loads the fuel pump is run at 9 volts and at higher loads it gets a full 12. see this page...

hmm, could be you are correct. but if that were happening i'd expect some backfires to happen when that unburnt fuel together with enough O2 hit the cat and ignitied from the hot honeycomb.

the soarer fuel ecu has 5 wires going to it, B from the main EFI relay , ground, FPC, D1 and a wire to the fuel pump + terminal. so, D1 goes directly from the ECU to the fuel pump ecu. i can't tell you exactly what that wire does just yet. it should either be signal wire from the fuel pump ecu...

well the soarer is supposed to have a fuel pump ecu, also called a fuel pump control relay. do you have voltage on that D1 wire while cranking? and have you tried putting the jumper in at the diagnostic block to make the fuel pump run?

mistakes are how we learn to do things right. i've made my share and some were costly.

ya know, i'm now wondering why the original pulley stripped on you? did the pump seize up? if it did then you need to replace that too. was the nut just not tight? wtf happened?

easy way to check these things. hook a fuel pressure gauge up so you can see it while driving, if it's a mechanical gauge don't run it into the cabin with you. if fuel pressure drops on the top end then you need to check over the fpr or fuel pump. if the gap were too much you'd have spark...

is that bottom graph your AFR? if so you're running dangerously lean

umm, jeff is THE parts guy at champion toyota. his number is 800-327-2087. no offense but i'm just a bit stunned that you don't know who he is. for more years than i know about he's been shipping parts to supra owners all over the U.S. and i've been getting parts for my 87 from him for 10 years...

jeff watson might be able to get you one.

well, you have a couple of options. if only the pulley on the hydro fan setup was messed up you could order a new one, part number 16939-46010, nut is 90179-12104. second option is to go ahead and order the 2jzgte pump assembly, part number 16100-49845 or 16100-49846. this includes the pump and...

what fpr are you running and have you hooked a fuel pressure gauge up that you can watch when you make a pull?

did the vacuum hose become disconnected from the fpr?