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I may have not had the heat on the highest setting WHILE adding the fluid, maybe just after I started it up...I guess that is most likely my problem, I will try jacking it up and letting it run. thanks

That vacuum line is attached, and the valve seems to be operating correctly when I change the temp between 65-85 (it is making normal noises when it adjusts). so engine running, front end jacked up, heater on full blast, but with or without the radiator cap on? does it matter? thanks

I have a similar question...when I got my car, the 1JZ swap was already done, with the CC in place, and the line 'to tank' still attached, with the 'purge' line venting to the atmosphere. Is this legit/safe? I don't smell fuel under the hood, and was wondering if my CC was doing its job or not...

When I changed my timing belt the other week, I removed the radiator, and filled it back up with 50/50 mix, almost 2 gallons worth. Now when I turn on the heat, it always blows luke-warm, from 65-85. When I change the temp, I can hear the slight clicking of it changing the amount of...

wow thats crazy...

^^Pretty sure

So would that mean that I can connect a supermonitor, and it would work? Or is it not that simple?

Under the steering column, near the pedals, I found a connector not plugged in, and was wondering what it was. Does anyone know what the bigger connector is for? My first thought was SuperMonitor wiring, but I have no idea... How about the little one? The connector on the right is one of...

Correct. I bought a 2JZ idler pulley from Champion Toyota, that came with the 2JZ tensioner arm, and just swapped the pulley's to keep the original length arm, because the arms ARE different, and the pulley's are the same.

wowzers

that muffler is oldschool GTS!! looks like its off an accord...lol

great pic!

and its a targa. looks like a good car!

here is how to make the horn work, see post #4: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10870&highlight=aftermarket+steering+wheel+horn should work on a removable hub too i believe.

The problem is in keeping your stock lock cylinder. The inside cable still works fine, because it doesn't use the lock cylinder, it is a separate cable. I'm pretty sure that if you used an 89+ lock cylinder, that it would just bolt into place, but the key would be different. not too sure what...

when I switched to 89+ tails, I had to epoxy my stock lock cylinder into place because it mounts to the center piece differently between the two styles. mine works fine, I am just easy on the key when unlocking. sounds like thats what the previous owner did, but not well, and the lock cylinder...

If you have a week, buy it from jeff whatson from champion toyota, for cheaper. you'll be surprised! but if you can't wait, the isuzu belt is the same, and works fine.

a free supra would most likely be the biggest POS supra around...unless the 'giver' is nice/dumb... you may want to save up some money and get you a decent supra in the $800-$1300 price range. they ARE out there, and some are actually nice after a little TLC.

My old N/A had a leak between the manifold and DP, and you could tell by holding your hand near the two, and revving the engine a little. It was also colored white-ish too, where it was leaking. I would try the hand-near-cold exhaust inspection, to see if you can feel/smell/hear exhaust...

not bad for a DD, and I bet the mileage is great compared to the supra!