I bleed mine over a few days by making sure the overflow bottle level is kept proper. The heating and cooling cycles will bleed the air out. As the water warms up and expands air gets trapped in the top of the radiator then pushed into the bottle, when the engine cools and the water capacity...
I bought mine at Autozone, they work great. When I did them I also installed Nutserts so if I ever have to do them again I can unbolt mine from the outside without removing the interior.
Rear Mighty Lits
Autozone # C95880 29.00
So True, and good thing I always check cause Discount Tires had one side I would say around 90-100 ftlbs and one side right on. One guy did one side and another guy did the other side. The guy that overtightened also mounted two of my F1s backwards cause his Boss didnt tell him the rims are...
I just got some new tires and want to torque my wheel nuts, I'm reading in the TSRM that the wheel nuts need to be torqued to 76 FtLb. Is that correct?
One good way to increase mpgs is buy cheap tall narrow hard as rock rubber high milage tires and fill them to thier max air pressure. But then why would you do that to a Supra.
JJ could you post some pics of the way you plumbed it like whats in and whats out. I was going plumb mine into the heater core hoses but I like your idea better since you have flow all the time.
I too have always used Coolant filters since I first saw one and it's results on my father in laws 75 blazer I rebuilt in 79, the insides of his engine were like bare spotless metal. no corrosion at all. The semi's use them since a semis radiator can cost thousands to replace, so it's cheap...
yes the idle was around 1200, and I'll ask the shop if they know about the jumper during timing setting, and ECU reset monday, Thanks Jdub for the input
I posted two jpegs one of the fail test and one of the pass test. the repairs were. I noticed the drop in MPGs the day after failing the first test, which was a couple of days before it went in for repairs. So far the MPGs are the same as the day after the test BAD, with gas at 4.09 a gallon I...
Thanks for the replys everyone, I'll look at the timing, anyone have a suggestion for the best timing for a stock N/A to acheive better MPGs. I'm not interested in power since there isn't much to begin with and it's a DD doing close to 100 miles a day.
I recently failed my smog test, then had repairs done, and passed. Ever since the first test my MPGs dropped off dramatically. This was the first time they did the Evaporation System Pressure Test, my question is, can this cause some kind of damage to a system part and reduce my MPGs?
North American Castrol Syntec 0W-30 is not the same as European Castrol 0W-30. That comes straight from an email to me from BP Europe which owns Castrol.
In case anyone missed it, the Control Arm bushings are now in the ES Catalog and should be able to be ordered from distributors. the rest of the kit is being worked on.
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/toy.html
The control arm bushings are NOW in the ES catalog. They are not in the Summit Catalog, BUT with the part numbers you should be able to order them.
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/toy.html
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