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^yikes. Time for a return hopefully at their expense. If anything its logical to think the stock DS would be slightly longer than a 1 piece aftermarket since its not traveling in a straight line.

Just what the title says. I know new ARP head studs will elongate the first time around, but given these are used, would a re-torque be advised or just unnecessary? 'Rebuld' Update: Car just started for the first time tonight. Full flow oil system took awhile to get all the kinks (fitment...

:dunno:

64bit

Im on Win 7 with IE8 and it blows. Constantly freezes for no reasons, load times are treacherous and consumes endless memory. I've always been an avid IE fan but recently switched to firefox and won't be returning to IE anything for awhile.

Metal. Its sturdy, and won't flex under vacuum. Edit: Durable. Won't crack over time as well. Con: Overpriced.

Honestly, given your other threads, I'd stick with stock or upgraded stock until you learn more about the car, how it works, and get all the other mods BEFORE you upgrade to anything non-CT.

^Thanks! Would a fuel line from an autoparts store be capable and handling the oil, heat and pressure? Whenever I handle normal hose vs. fuel line, seems as though the fuel line is much tougher both heated and normal temps compared with normal hose. Is this a poor assumption?

OK, that I never would've guessed, never had a reason to fool with it.. Good to know though. On another note, do you know what the thread size is for the ports on the block in IJ's pic?

Just to make this very clear, that is NOT a 'mesh guard'. The honey comb design allows the karman vortex meter to work and read properly! I won't go into detail, just know, do not mess with it.

Just wondering if this port is under oil pressure. I have suspicions that my e-gauge is inaccurate when hot so i'd like to tap into it for a permanent mechanical gauge to be mounted at the firewall. I found this already posted by IJ however this port is not even in the picture at all. I don't...

Well, that doesn't just happen to a compressor wheel. SOMETHING was in the intake to do that kind of damage if there is no or little shaft play.

^its a compressor wheel. Did that happen AFTER you bought it? If so, did you run without an air filter or something??

^yikes! didn't you check this turbo before you got it???

uhm, it is a compressor....

^and you most likely won't. Its not ok if he's so worried about running into the 220's. I've run without one a long time as well but im also running a large Rad for extra cooling capacity on hot days. I've seen my temp fluctuate into the 230's and beyond even with a 500 dollar Fluidyne. This...

^Well that's good some things were accomplished lol. Dyno time is just so expensive, i wouldn't want anyone to waste it from a stupid boost leak. Surprised your couplers ripped so quickly, were you using Ebay ones or something? Though I have a few ebay ones that have lasted, the tclamps on the...

there's a Brand NEW MKIII Supra out there as well. IIRC they wanted $40,000+.

You could always just disconnect the seat, then you won't have to worry about adjusting it because you won't be able too :) Not to mention, I think all the options are just getting in your head and causing the problem.

the rear cover is machinable OFF the block. GaboonViper did this IIRC, i even think he has pictures posted in his build thread.