Search results

50ft ...I think!

About a roll, maybe 40ft? The packaging listed the length needed depending on the circumference of the pipe being wrapped. It was pretty accurate.

With the car being so much faster, I was roasting/fading the stock brakes far too easily. So I was motivated to finally install my powerslot rotors, EBC redstuff pads, with the new 13" PBR cobra front brakes and Mk4 TT rears (freshly painted black!) I was lucky to pick up one of the old...

Since the massive bodywork and interior makeovers are now done, after this long thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29531 I figured I should start a new one as I progress and continue to upgrade the performance of the car. Here's a quick rundown of the new recent mods...

I thought about this, until I read that more than 15hg of vac on the crankcase can be bad: http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/vacuum-pumps.html

And next time, I'm not doing any upgrades the week prior to an event. Just like before Vegas, I was scrambling and losing sleep right up until the hour I had to leave; again! Crusing is fun, except when almost falling asleep at the wheel.

Would a methanol/water nozzle placed before the TB effectively clean any potential oil deposits in the intake manifold from the stock PCV setup?

Made it back without problems, just a squeaky new brake rotor. Dave was saying that universal laws dictate that at least one Supra breakdown happens at each big meet or convoy. It was looking like that tradition wasn't going to happen until the ride home when 3 cars had major failures! :aigo...

Perhaps someone can explain. Is there any fresh air inlet into the crankcase? How can we expect to suck out crankcase gases if there is no fresh air coming in to vent it? Also, I know that many other engines use PCV valves to put a fair amount of vacuum on the crankcase to help seal piston...

Too bad there are no controllers out there than offer PWM speed-control for DUAL fans. Only single seem to be available. The SPAL above says a relay must be used for duals, defeating the speed control capability.

Grammatically, that sounds really funny! I think my aluminum flywheel makes it hard to drop the engine's momentum into the launch to avoid bog.

For those that don't know, the dashpot is an emissions control device to help burn unburnt fuel each time the throttle is closed while driving. It is a simple diaphram that uses a valve to let air in quickly, but release it slowly, easing the throttle plate closed when released over a very short...

It's not even listed. Mods please update post #1 with the actual start time.

I don't have a 2-step yet, so it needs a fair bit of feathering off the line to avoid bogging.

Just wondering how badly drag racing will shorten the life of my clutch? I have an ACT Xtreme pressure plate and an ACT organic street disc rated to hold 522tq. The clutch is perfectly broken in, and holds my 400+ hp perfectly. I'd like to do a little bit of drag racing this year just for fun...

I am careful of this, as I've noticed my car on at half throttle or up a hill can easily build 5-10psi while the A/F's are 14.7. I've been contemplating having a meth/water kit with a medium sized nozzle setup to start spraying at 7-10psi just for a little extra safety, and to be able to boost...

960Nm = 707.96 Ft/Lb :aigo: That is abnormally high torque for a 7M. On gasoline, the TQ and HP numbers are usually pretty close.

Can you elaborate?

My SP quick spool valve mimicks the results of this. My idle and cruising is now very quiet, and it opens at 11psi.

The torque from my 7M made quick work of the Torsen diff after I swapped it in. The entire assembly sheared right off from where it bolts onto the ring gear :biglaugh: (I hope you're not gonna run a Torsen in your 500hp build)