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I've read all I can find on the subject, and have been making this condition slowly better over the past month, staying out of boost. I'm not asking for someone to tell me what to do, but pointing in the right direction would be appreciated. If it's not the screw, I can only think of these...

jet jock I know you don't hold peoples hands and like to give out cryptic metaphors instead of advice, so if you could actually shed light on the situation, please PM me

because it's worse when the screw is back out as well as VF at constant 5v. at least with it I all the way in, the VF is around 3-3.5v

I'm here for justice. making my own extended screw today or tomorrow, because nobody on earth carries an m14x1.0 stud lol. I'm EXTREMELY lean under boost, like 18+ but idle and cruise are fine when not boosting. VF's are alright, no boost or vac leaks. I don't want to just pump up the SAFC...

living in williamsport right now, from closer to Philly

i just finished my conversion, and now i'm having a problem. for anyone listening/reading, it'l start, run for a few seconds, and shut off. i'm not getting any codes either, and the harness was extended and properly soldered and protected. all my wires were extended meticulously, making sure...

pick up a 7mge and no na-t

glad to hear the link I sent you works,

even my low-tech's have a front-rake

i've already cleaned my contacts and it's still an intermittent problem. i'd rather splice some wires for free than buy a new switch for however much someone wants to rape me for.

i saw these as well, very curious as to whether they hold up or not. but for $70 shipping, i'm very hesitant, when I can just make my own out of aluminum.

your contacts are probably f*cked. mine is hit or miss, so i'm going to re-wire the switches to completely bypass the passenger switch, and work them both off the driver switch.

looks awesome man, I can't wait to get started on mine. I'd really like it to be a 9.5-ish:1 CR 7m, but probably will be using a 3.4 for ease and quickness of swap. kudos to you.

I have one, but it's kind of loud. could use a rebuild, but I drove it for about 400 miles no problem when I bought my supra

follow this link, cleanest write-up i've seen to date. Do it right, you can get everything you need from the retrofit source, and you'll only have to do it once. http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?39030-MK3-Supra-Turbo-7x6-retractable-HID-setup or just check out the last few...

haha yea. I've never done that on anything important like this, I soldered on an extension and use a new crimp-connector for the terminal.

yep, it was the wire from the terminal to the fuse block. it looked like something chewed through it, and instead of fixing it, someone just wrapped it in half a roll of electric tape

I keep forgetting to mention that before I installed LED dash lights and the NA volt meter yesterday, it was running like a top. I also removed the CC, but I don't see why that would mess with the system to this capacity.

I keep forgetting to mention that before I installed LED dash lights and the NA volt meter yesterday, it was running like a top. I also removed the CC, but I don't see why that would mess with the system to this capacity.

thanks man, I saw those possible solutions last night when I was digging for a thread with a similar issue. it was too late to try it but ill check it out when I get home from work. all electrical and wiring gurus, speak up!!