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Iron block. Aluminum pistons. Nuff said.

It's OK because, ya know, I never come across as a dick here...

Codes? Sounds like you may have a cross counting problem with the stock lambda sensor. Your AEM displays AFR but the sensor itself measures nothing but oxygen. EGT measures the variable (temperature) directly. That's all I was getting at.

It's "break". Hope that helps...

You're trying to tweak things when the system is in closed loop which it always is at part throttle with a warm engine. It's done for emissions reasons but that's a good thing it also happens to be where the engine runs cleanest and gets nearly the best fuel economy. You should worry more about...

Stop fighting the O2 sensor?

"All of this has happened before and it will all happen again" http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?218068-88-Mk3-7MGTE-C.P.S.-question

Stock is not 16 psi. Iirc it's .9 bar

That implies you have a problem with connector B1 or the fuse box. Since you have power at the fuse the ignition switch is good, at least the part we're concerned with. Dunno what else to say except you're got two experienced electrical engineers trying to help. We've explained how it works...

The same wire that comes out of the fuse goes to IGSW. No need to trace look under the dash. Use the book and step through the connection points. Can also disconnect the battery and use ohms. Remember, owning a meter doesn't make you an electrician anymore than owning a guitar makes you a...

Nor does he likely need a three row...

What 3p said. You should have 12 volts at those items and at the 7.5 ign fuse: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=16 If you have that power (it should go on and off with the key) but have nothing at IGSW there's a break somewhere in between and yer just gonna...

Also make sure the ECU grounds are connected to the bolt on the intake manifold.

Refer here and previous two pages: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=49 First, the ECU needs power on terminal BATT. Should be there all the time. Then, when the key is turned on: 1) Ignition switch supplies power (through 7 amp IG fuse) to ECU terminal...

Unfortunately it means the starter is the least of your worries. It also means you need to find (maybe even pay) someone who is electrically competent.

Main Relay needs to be on for +B at the box: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=48 Does the MIL come on with the key? If so the relay is closed. Yeah, the starter should be grounded with your setup. If there's really 12 volts there it should at least make some...

Well, if there's 12vdc at the starter and also at the starter trigger (both capable of delivering the current required) the starter will operate unless it's faulty or ungrounded. Simple as that.

Code 52 means the ESA system is inoperative. Detonation shouldn't occur under those conditions (nor should it with ESA functional) but why drive the car like that?

Scroll down then click to embiggen. Unlike the factory diagram this one makes it obvious: http://www.akitarescueoftulsa.com/7mgte-diagram/

Well, with only 550s, Lex, and WB what are you going to tune with? That said you won't need the EMS as long as you don't go boost crazy. Not as good as a real piggy back but an airflow controller will do.