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That's not what happens, re-read Nash's link ;).

Check for carbon deposits in them AND in the metal tube, that could be what is causing the problem. Start with the basics first and rule them out as you go along. I'd say you've either got dry rotten vacuum hoses or carbon buildup in them pretty bad.

It's amazing how much better that thing will fit with just a simple oil filter relocation kit...

I doubt that's the problem.

No difference, just differences between the years, NA's, and options when buying an NA.

Just for reference this link will show you what to expect out of ebay headers and turbos... minus the big ass dent on the header out of the box ;).

The UTE?

Better yet. If you can't figure out how to properly use that test kit, go to an aquarium store, or hell, even Wal Mart and buy a Ph test kit and READ the instructions, use a sample of your collant (buy a chicken baster or something if you have to) and then report back you findings on what Ph...

You should have kept the '88 for a parts car, now you have to go and buy all of that stuff needed seperately.

That turbo in the link is going to have some serious lag, and no telling how long it's going to last. If you get it, I would send it off to a turbo specialist right off the bat for inspection.

A smaller wastegate will let you build high boost easily, but a larger wastegate will control that boost better. Think of a wastegate as a power restictor.

The turbo won't affect how much inHg vacuum the motor pulls, but different cams will, along with how tight or how loose the piston rings are, valve seals, etc. You need to measure how much vacuum your motor pulls, then refer to Tial's website for correct spring selection. On a freshly...

Sounds like You've got a vacuum problem. A properly running 7M will create around 20-22 inHg of vacuum.

And you know where the shrapnel from the compressor wheel goes once it snaps, right? ;) Just hope you've got an intercooler in the way of the throttle body so it will take the biggest hit. I'd rather sacrafice an intercooler than a motor...

lol.

Proof?

Trust me, the cranking method is soo much easier and faster ;)

And I would be one of those happy people :) ;)

Great link ;) To answer the original poster, none. Get a good condition fan shroud, 10 blade fan (stock for turbo supras) and check your fan clutch to ensure it's still working as it should, if not, follow the above link to rebuild it, it probably needs it anyways...

What I was referring to was, if you're not doing what post #9 said, then after machining and such, you will be better off just keeping the head you have now as long as it's usable.