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My wing is a Mugen replica for a Honda Prelude. The front tips needed to be shortened, but it fit reasonably well otherwise. It's nice subtle compromise between the Kaminari and the Bomex whale tail.

The best sound stage and imaging is had when you are most centered in between, with most equal distance, and each tweeter is directly facing your ears. The ideal location for this effect is in the kick pod areas. Mine are simply surface mounted with a single screw.

Looks like there is nothing Supra about that car at all, other than the fiberglass skin that looks like a Mk3. Still cool though!

Nice numbers Randy. Throw in a 2JZ bottom end and an auto for easy 11's or even 10's

Dave (Grimjack) had to cut a hole in the top of his shroud, because the PWR is so thick it moves the shroud within 1/8" from the stock fan blades, and they can easily jam the fan and break the shroud.

How important is fin density? My old Koyo rad had a very high density/number of fins. The new Koyo I just bought looks to have about half the number of fins.

Canadian Blue book value for my car was $2600 CDN in 2007. It's true, Canadian cars cost more, and have less selection, which is why I imported mine from the USA. Funny thing is, if this were a Mk2 in identical condition, it would probably sell for asking price. The fact is, you gotta start...

Quick update. The new turbo and meth kit setup has been super reliable, except for the finicky water fittings that come loose every so often. I've been beating on the car hard, always lots of full throttle pulls every time I drive it. This stock JDM 7M seems to be very solid and consistent at...

Great vids. It's hard to believe my car used to be a pre-89 with gutless power and squishy handling :D

As a side note, I had much better results running a BOV setup with 1" ID pipes/hose compared to the stockish 3/4". I think the 3/4" pvc couplers are just way too small inside, and caused my a lot of surging blowoff when I was running a 57 trim CT26. The same BOV with 1" ID heater hose and 1"...

What's ironic is that directly across from that parking lot, and behind it as well, is the storage yard for literally thousands of new Mazdas. Check out the satellite view and scroll around a bit...

Me too, because luckily, Dave's only 8 minutes away from me, 4 if I speed excessively :biglaugh:

It just fatigues over time and causes stress cracks, which eventually expand. Torque around 350 and above just drastically accelerates this process!

Just a fine toothed hacksaw and a vise. If you look at the first pic, you may get a better idea of where I cut.

The diaphragm has to be able to suck air in quickly, but then let it out extremely slowly. The boost controller in line would not allow enough air to be quickly sucked in. The dashpot VTV has a very sensitive check valve designed for this, and must be cut open to block the original outflow...

I had my sensor in this location for a while with no problems on an upgraded CT26. But the sensor quickly died when I ran a larger turbo. It's a bit expensive, but I've been running the heatsink I mentioned above http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/i...nder-p-73.html and my new sensor seems to...

Check your air fuel ratios, and tune for around 11.5, and keep it limited to 15psi on pump gas. What are you using for tuning? Be careful, knocking and detonation that is loud enough to hear can easily cause piston damage. Also can check that your timing belt is aligned properly. A shop once...

Lol, I think Randy is talking about my subframe, the diff would have surely ripped out of the subframe if I kept on driving it like that at 450rwhp. It was actually cracked when I got the car, when it had only 350hp. The 87-88 subframes desperately need reinforcement.

I've boosted at 450rwhp through twisty roads with my targa off. No problems. Although I do have my frame rails filled with high-density urethane foam.

It's already at 50psi. I won't complain though, this is already pushing a stock 7M pretty far beyond what most people do ;)