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I'm not exactly sure where it physically connects, but it should join the wiring harness. It is where the ECU gets ALL of its ground reference. Take note that the ground is used as a reference when the ECU measures voltage from, well, EVERY SINGLE SENSOR! Anyway, check that very thouroghly...

Well, in addition to the grounds you listed, there's also the one I was talking about--under the #5 intake runner. Be sure to verify it is not only tight, but very clean and sanded off--this is the most important ground on the car and is almost certainly your problem, if it's a grounding issue...

As has been said, Mobil 5000 is not synthetic in any way. I do believe it is one of the better standard oils. That's not saying much, though. Just to clarify, Mobil 1 15K is NOT the same as the old Mobil 1. 15K just came out a couple months ago, or so, and has a very different formula...

Well, the reason to worry is that we don't know what's causing this. The engine computer is MORE than 20% wrong with the base fuel calculation, because even with a 20% correction towards rich, it's still running lean. Not knowing what causes that is a little frightening. Scottie, what is...

I was recently diagnosing electrical issues, and took out the glovebox where the E-Manage was mounted. As such, I've been running without it--with, of course, the AFM wire jumpered. I recalibrated the LM-1 after a night of sitting (to let the exhaust clear), followed by emptying an air...

I think TurboA7MGTE has it here. I just found this thread. I suffered from similar problems, and went through similar frustrations trying to solve the issue... After hours upon hours of checks and research, I stumbled across a mention that the ground wire under the #5 intake runner tends to...

Hey all. My car (mods in image below) is apparently running lean at idle...with the ECU performing maximum fuel dump (5V at Vf terminal). My LM-1 wideband showed readings from 15.5 to 16.5AFR, or thereabouts, at idle when the car is fully warmed up. I tried cranking up the base fuel pressure...

This is exactly what I needed to hear, and jumpering the check connector makes perfect sense. Thanks! :icon_bigg

Yes. I had the same problem with my '92 N/A after highly incompetent mechanics had their way with it. The ran the EGR vacuum lines to the CRUISE CONTROL, and put the EGR on permanent vacuum (always on). If you think about it, having it open all the time and throwing code 71 makes perfect...

Nope. The screw I'm referring to is pointed lengthwise along the car, and is right above the thottle body near the throttle plate. It is covered by a little rubber stopper. The screw itself is surrounded in the metal, exactly like the Lexus AFM air bypass screw, but smaller.

Interesting. I can't help but wonder how the heck the ECU manages to control the idle speed; it's almost certainly not the ISC. I'm nearly positive the ISC has four modes of operation, each of which are discrete levels of the bypass valve opening.

Strictly speaking, Toyota says 4.3PSI of oil pressure is nominal at idle. For those interested, I have an idea about why the N/A idle is higher than the Turbo...as far as I know, one of the main functions of a preset idle speed is to ensure that the crankshaft splashes enough oil around to...

Hey all. My car is sporting a high idle (about 950RPM when warm), and I'm confused about how I'm supposed to adjust that. I figured the TPS wouldn't help, because it's sending IDL to the ECU, and as far as I know, the ISC is on its lowest setting when the engine is not under any auxiliary load...

Might as well throw in a couple more for this incredibly long thread... '88T: '92N/A (For sale...:nono:):

Thanks for the advice; I just thought of it myself to jumper the pump and try to start it, rather than just observing pressure during that check. I was going through the Toyota tech articles on the fuel system, and found that the ECU can shut off the pump if it does not have an RPM signal...

This one's verbetim from SupraForums: Well, this is pretty crushing. None of that worked. The coil pack ground was indeed broken--just a screw with a broken ring terminal underneath it. I couldn't get the screw off, but I also couldn't find the actual wire that goes to the head (though I...

smagnotta, thanks for your reply. I've really been thinking the problem was related to electrical grounds or connections, so I did a lot of checking around. E1, E01, and E02 grounds seem good (0.2-0.4 ohms) at the check connector, AFM, and ECU harness. However, I didn't know anything about...

Here are some screenshots of the data I collected. I just don't know. Car started and left to its own devices, next day: Car started and given a little bit of throttle, that night: Car started and given considerable throttle, that night: Car started and give lots o' throttle...

Also, no error codes; it did throw 24 and 31 when I unplugged the AFM, as it should have. With that plugged in, nothing. Another potentially related thing: earlier that day, my turn signals stopped working. I had been messing around with the fuses in the driver's side kickpanel, and had...

I've got the Greddy E-Manage, and as I mentioned, I tried unplugging it and jumpering the AFM KV wire. It did exactly the same thing in the same amount of time, so I just plugged it back in. The CPS has given me trouble before, but in my experience, one of the symptoms is a dead tachometer...