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I had looked at making a set for myself at one point, but the material alone was ~$180 for just the rear 6. It wasnt worth it to me.

I like the choice of the turbo. I went with the standard S366, with the .91 twin scroll housing and kept the odd sized Borg V-Band so I can run a 4" downpipe. Do you think the thermal dispersant coating on the compressor housing is better than ceramic coating? I was think the ceramic would help...

Do it soon then, cause that coolant will just eat the bearings, even if you've drained the oil. That stuff will make it's way through the whole motor. Just keep an ear open for rod knock.

^Driven hard and put away wet. Literally. I wouldnt just do the head gasket. Go for the full rebuild

Glad to see the the Borg Warner is working good for you. I picked up a S366 for my 7M build. Cant argue with a $600 price tag that put down the same power as a 1500 alternate. I feel the Borg's are overlooked too often, not too many people on hear seem to be using them, they typically go with...

Check the bore on the #2 main cap. If the bearing spun it probably wiped the cap out. The bearing clearance most likely is not consistent the entire diameter.

I think we've kinda gone a little off topic here. Not to be the thread police or anything, I had my hand in here too, but its just becoming another pissing war and I would hate to have to read another one. The OP asked for advice. I wasn't nay-saying either motor as a choice, but gave an...

Matches my point above, comparable engines. There is only a 50-90hp difference, simple bolt-ons can make that up on a 7M. Not worth the labor IMO. The JZ guys cant get me down, I'm to being joked on because of engine choices, I daily an Rx8, and you know how much shit the rotary guys get...

Only reason mine is on an engine stand is because the previous owner spun a rod bearing before I bought it, hence why it was being rebuilt.. some people.. But I stuck with the 7M because the cost of a JZ swap wasn't worth it just to get a comparable motor to what I already had. I'm also...

Pretty soon the JZ's will have the same rap as the 7M because of these guys. gstsxtt, if you want an engine you can rely on without taking care of, as you stated you've done with the 7M, grab a 1ZZ out of a corolla and swap it in, they can run for years without oil.

I'll see if I can get a pic in the next day or two. Most of the stuff on the front of the drivers fender was moved into the frame rail. The rest of the bay isnt tucked yet, which is why its fed through the hole behind the headlight. Once the rest is done it will change and I'm sure many...

You should also think of making brackets for all the components that you moved, you don't want that stuff bouncing around in those zip-ties. I moved my fusebox to the front bumper support, its away from the tire, so there is no risk of water being sloshed up, and if a fuse needs replaced you...

There is a little plastic elbow for coolant on the passenger side of the motor that often degrades from heating up and cooling down constantly. Had one blow apart going down the highway and dump coolant all over causing a huge smoke display. When I went to replace it, the remaining portions...

Really like the blue. Is the engine bay being sprayed too? Where did you get your leather to cover the doors?

Just to give you another option, you could look into using an electric power steering rack out of an rx8. I have an rx8 for a dd and feel like it gives a good feedback feel to what is actually happening down at the wheels. EDIT: A similar discussion is on the rx7club forums, it might give some...

Wow! Nice job with the floor repair. I'm hoping that I dont find anything like that once I get the sound deadening out. You planing on repainting the the rest of the interior?

How do you plan on removing the stock sound deadening? Just going at it with a scrapper? I am going to be removing mine as well, just trying to find the easiest way to do it

You wouldnt gain much, because all you can really do is exhaust and intake. Unless you have extensive head work done with bigger valves, porting, and cams. Which will add up quick, so if you are looking to gain power a turbo is your best option.

That's not necessarily the case. You would need the ECU and engine harness that goes with that motor and swap all that in. Plus the associated electronics like the boost gauge (meaning turbo dash) and relay, which would need to be put in for the car to run correctly, unless you go to a piggyback...

Had the same thing happen to my GTE, well at least it happened to the guy I bought the car from. Except my rod snapped at the wrist pin and then proceeded to wrap itself around the rod journal on the crank and continue to beat the hell out of the block as the previous owner kept driving it. I...