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looks to be real imo, but you could always call eagle and see if they changed their box design.

those brackets are pretty badass. something different than the normal strip metal most of us use.

I'm in for one if this goes through. let me know when the deposit can be made and all the details and ill be there.

I have my pickup on the cam gear in the rear. With my sensor being located in the valley area between the two valve covers. Ill have to snap a pic when I can. That car is on hold for now while i finish up my other one. I have the whole cam and crank pickup done, but I haven't done final...

What did you switch the design for?

Been trying to think of what I want to plug that hole with. was thinking a block off like the 2j's have, but I think ill go that route. Only issue is I have to do it to multiple heads. Rather not destroy a head that I will probably reuse on a car that won't have crank/cam pickups.

Thought about it, but not a fan of that scene of cars. Would be a fun time im sure, but there is more hella flush shit there and factory cars than anything. Although some peoples tastes are different, im not a fan.

was just going to bump this a few days ago. glad people are still checking it out. Hopefully it is still helping. I forget what the stuff I used was called, but I used a 3m 2 part clear epoxy. I am sure there are some other cheaper options on the market now, but that is what I used back then...

Hard telling. thats a good thought tho. I only run e85, so I am not concerned about it. Only time my car will see pump is in an emergency, or during the winter for storage, and Ill stay out of it if that happens. I don't see an issue making 30ish psi off of a 14psi spring, and that would be...

Idk if you have talked to SP about upgrading at all either, but talk to Mark and Reid about Marks actuator setup. They ended up doing a turbosmart actuator, which is basically the same thing but a known good brand. Obviously more money, but no where near t4 setup money. I am happy with my cheap...

Alec, why not go to an upgraded wastegate actuator that you can adjust the springs in? I did that on my DBB 6776 bolt on ct26 style turbo, and love it. I have 3 or 4 different springs. 7 psi, 11 psi, 18psi, and 22 psi for now. They go all the way up to 28ish psi or something around there, and...

2j. if you have a late 89+ subframe itll bolt right in. use 7m electronics, jz bellhousing and flywheel, done. I have a 7m in both of my cars, and have wished I would have went jz a long time ago, or keep my shit more stock and enjoy it. I am too burried now to change it, but would consider it...

Is the engine out of the vehicle? or already torn down? why not just take it to a machine shop and have it done right. If its still assembled it might be a little more work, but its no more work than trying to sand it with what you are thinking, and if you are thinking of using a MHG don't even...

I would love to buy one for one or even both of my cars, but if I got one, I wouldn't want a ton of other people to have it and make the value of one you would already own plummet. just keep your eye out for one, and when you get it, send it kaminari yourself and get repro's made for all of us...

You didn't put it in two gears at the same time did you? If you throw the trans in two gears at the same time itll lock up.

Ive experienced that. Best to hold off if it doesn't feel right. Theres plenty more 7m's out there. I am not sure if you are looking for the 11 rib block for strength, or just trying to figure out what this exact one was, but IMO you don't really need an 11rib unless you are over 1kwhp. nice...

looks like a pre 89 block. can drop the pan and check the webs on the mains too. they will tell you. Late model 7m engines will have the thicker webs on the mains, and they are 11 rib blocks, so 11 ribs on the side. here are two comparisons of each to spot the easy differences. Late 7m mains...

bought one for my white 89 recently. gotta finish up my other car first before i start on it, but I am getting excited to get to work.

is the flange for the wastegate made for a 38mm? it may or may not work fine, only way to tell would be to run it and see. if its only a 30 some mm hole, id get rid of the 44mm gate and just get a 38mm gate. no reason to go larger if it cant flow it. Is it a tubular manifold or cast?

And I understand and respect that. Its just something to keep in mind. I would love to see how these will turn out, and what they will support, and would also like to see if there is a good decrease in E.T.s at the track with vehicles using these transmissions.