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These fuel filters do accumulate dirt over time. I cut mine open, which had approximately 50,000 miles. 8ft long, and unfolded, you can see that the outer edges(which are together when the element is folded), are the only remaining full flow section.The non-translucent section is literally caked...

And how long would it take to get a set of say, F/R orange, to the US?

Well, I took an old TEMS switch unit, popped out the guts, glued on a new ABS grainy plastic face, and fitted a rocker switch for my cutout. Looks pretty good, and of course, fills the spot as it should.

Great job. I like the wire tuck, your engine bay looks very clean.

Looking good.

I'm considering that myself, but I don't want to lose the 12v socket.

If you don't mind cutting the shifter surround, you could place either style plug just above and to the right of the shifter hole. Otherwise, just hide the plug under the armrest.

Yeah, I imagine that its a generic description of the shocks, but for the supra application, it's just three settings.

"Box instrument panel" Original part number on my maroon is 55441-14100, and shows as discontinued. But there is a replacement number, 55441-14101, and you may still be able to get it. It says that this part number supersedes the following: 55441-14100-02, 55441-14100-03, 55441-14100-04...

You mean the small coin holder? Probably. What color is your interior? *EDIT*- oops, I see you already answered that question.

I PM'd Cthulu, asking him to give updates. I hate unresolved threads. If results aren't posted in the threads, there's no point to using the search function, and that's why we end up with multiple threads on the same topics, and we're always yelling at people to use search.

Looking good.

LOL. That's funny. I bet he gets a kick out of that. I put my electric exhaust cutout switch there.

For idle, I would assume that your TB has to be set so that a set screw will hold the throttle plate open just a hair. Do you have a set screw on it?

Hey Cartert, Glad you figured out the issue, and it wasn't the cams/ crank pulley. I would continue to check all of the vac and boost hoses/ pipes for leaks.

Well, it looks like that part number is indeed the correct size, and you should order according to your piston size(std, +.5mm, etc.) You'll have to order two sets, of course.

Good luck with the engine rebuild. My 2nd car is similar to your build, in that I wanted to keep it as stock as possible, but a few aftermarket bits slipped into it regardless. The oem sawblades were pretty ugly, and one was bent. since I had 18" XXR's sitting in the corner collecting dust, I...

Thanks for reading. My '88 Project is getting the high end system, but honestly, putting more than 1 10" or 12" in your car is simply to impress others, not to improve actual fidelity. I am so pleased with my system, simply because it's clean, sounds fantastic, and doesn't kill my interior space.

Ps- if you find that this is the case, be sure to mark a new TDC notch on your pulley. Of course, a replacement pulley is a better option, since it could slip again at any time.

Your cam timing is probably off now, which would explain the loss of vacuum at idle. There have been a number of people who suffer crank pulley breakage: The rubber between inner and outer sections shears, and the outer pulley section(with the timing mark) moves in relation to the inner...