Without some sort of emoticon, I wasn't going to let it pass. Downstream MAFs are tricky because you need laminar flow so it must be in a decent length of straight pipe. Also, oil fouling can be an issue.
Here's a typical datalog snippet of the speed variable from a 7M stock ECU using only the mechanical reed switch signal as input. You can see it is clean. Dealing with noisy signals is what separates the men from the boys!
Time Speed RPM
===================
225.054 0 1245.3
225.084 0...
Block the wheels, e-brake on, put it in 5th gear, and torque the nut to 195 ft-lbs. The reason it fell off was because it was not torqued properly the last time it was removed. I would check for damage to the crank snout, pulley, and key before reassembling.
The 7M ecu is able to get a reliable speed reading from the stock mechanical reed switch. It does do quite a bit of averaging though and it is smart enough to throw out pulses that are unreasonably short.
Whoops, actually they are Eagle files, not Gerber files.
I made a 64 to 42 pin adapter, but still ran into trouble because not all the pins are documented. so you're going to have to do some detective work to proceed.
http://toyota.kgbconsulting.ca/wiki/Pinout_42_pin
I sold all of the ones I had made, but the gerber files are here,
http://trac.assembla.com/7M_TCCS/browser/TCCS%20Reader
and the BOM here.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AuaCVRlVkhEcdHh6c2ZKaE1Kd0RFcVZoYXE2Y1RDTEE&hl=en_GB
Dorkbots can make them at minimal cost.
That is the plan. The hardware development is mostly done now, and the focus now has shifted to the application. Post #461 shows a preliminary look at the datalogging capability, and we are focusing on improving that and also adding the on-the-fly map tuning. We have decided the PC...
That is not correct. The stock ECU will start cross counting as soon as the O2 sensor starts working (first lean to rich transition), which is typically no more than 15-30 seconds after a cold start.
We've gone down this path before. High hi-side and low lo-side is an obstruction. You've now replaced the TXV and the whole evap, so that should have covered any of the usual culprits. Unless you've got a bolt or something stuck in the pipe, or a big dent somewhere, I don't know where else to...
With 10 deg subcooling there is already plenty of liquid in the condenser. Spraying it with water will just add more liquid in the condenser, won't change a thing at the evap.
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