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Can pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks. Also make sure there is no air in the system. Make sure the cap is good

No. Its not to common.

Its been like that for a little while. Ive forgotten whos site it is too. What are you looking for specifically?

Everything should be balanced. By removing material you are making the crank shaft out of balance and it should then be re balanced. And balancing the eniter rotating assembly is a good thing.

might want to take a closer look. In pic no 2 it has a resemblance to cracks.

You can try but I highly doubt it. It's cast iron. Not something easily fixed. Any pics of the threads in the hole?

There are torque specs for a reason.

did you take out the stock fan? If so put it back. Also did you have either head machined or pressure checked for cracks? And what brand head gasket did you use? And what did you torque the head bolts to?

stock the 1j has 280 at the crank. so its not far off.

Idk who carries it but its loctite 7200 cleaner gasket remover. comes in a green can

Its resonance type knock sensor and they are matched to the particular engine. So the ecu is looking for that signal for proper operation. Use only the correct part number knock sensors.

Idk what your fuel lines are in the s chassis but if there not 3/8ths or -6 id reconemnd that. Dont cheap out on a fpr. Get a aeromotive. Denso map sensor? Stock is good to 14psi. You can take the twins to 17-18 but they wont last that long. 14psi and a safc and you should be at about...

Yes. Unless you want it to float around as soon as you hit a bump.

Both look the same. Looks pretty decent. Atleast the mounting tabs are in the correct place. Personally i think my oem toyota was well worth it. I only paid 180 when i worked for toyota. But its been on both my na and turbo car for past 8 years and close to 100k with no issues. Could...

If the bell housing bolts bolts on then count the splines and everything with the bell housing on. And then test fit. As long as everything bolts up and torque converter is ok should be fine.

Ther nuts that are tack welded in place. So sometime the welds will get corroded or over torque and break, if you have a welder handy you have drill a hole on each side and then re weld them pretty easy. Or drill the holes and then take to a muffler shop and have them weld it real fast.

If you have spark the ignitier is not your problem.

Rrfpr? Im not familiar. Is it a spearco kit? Have you verified that you actually have fuel pressure?

Where did it start smoking from>? If it was from the exhaust its most likely bhg. If it was from under the hood it is prolly due to a coolant leak. Also could have air in the system.

Yes you can bypass it altogether or you can drill it out. Either works. The j-tube has a small hole on 1 end to act as a back up regulator incase the main fpr fails.