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86.5 Targa FTW you are now the 2nd 86.5 targa besides mine that ive ever heard of PICS!!!! and good choice on the 1JZ swap

Charcoal canister VSV

the rotors the kits use are the stock front rotors on a 2002-2004 Corvette Z06 they have the 5x4.75" and 5x4.5" bolt patterns in them

at my old job at Reher-Morrison Racing engines, all we would use is Total Seal rings, from the 414 stroker SBC all the way up to the 944ci monster BBC (such a fun engine). Like its been said, they require a special style of hone and a hard hard break in. the dyno operator would hold the motor at...

with the n/a just shimmed out, it cleared at idle, but it would just barely touch once the motor got up over 5K, you could hear it hitting while making a pull, thats why i trimmed it. and now that i look at that picture, i need to repaint the blade

im running 18's with 35 wall in front and 30 wall in back no wonder its so much lower

damn man, yours is slammed on them! hope you enjoy them

it does look tight on the back, but each blade is notched even revving it out, it flexes a lil, but completely clears front and back

here ya go, Koyo Rad + GTE clutch + GE fan

1.5jz

my car came equipped with tems, but coilovers get rid of that

not sure on if its the race radiator, not sure what it is really, my friends fan tore it up, i fixed it after that. i had a factory shroud, but it was in bad shape, came loose and got torn up. i need to find a new one edit: whichever one the radiator in the picture is, thats the one ive got

Im running a TT clutch and N/A fan blade, slightly spaced out, with the rear of the blades trimmed to clear the water neck. Also running a Koyo radiator, with absolutely no clearance issues

either factory JZA70, or BIC mounts

nuff said once you feel the difference, youll be glad you did

are you going to run a/c? if not i have an adapter to run the 7M unit

JZ's are longer than the 7M, there isnt as much room in front of the motor as there is on a 7M

should be an A70 ECU, i dont believe the X81 ecu had the flying lead. doesnt really matter as they both work the exact same

same procedure and codes as the 7M jumper the E1 and TE1 terminals in the diagnostic connector

if you are going to start that engine on a stand, you better make damn sure that stand is 1. Sturdy 2. Braced thoroughly if it isnt, motor will torque and flip over.