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you should have the ssqv running off the stock bov location under the intake manifold, its a bigger hose diameter which should result in a better working bov... but yes the back of the intake manifold would be a good spot for an EVC.

i just do it as an incentive to do it faster in all honesty. i would love for him to do the testing, but i also dont wanna not have it for 4 weeks or some other semi-long amount of time. and you would willingly send a stranger your rare part for "testing" with nothing in return to know...

if he wants to send me a deposit that i'll send back when i get the bar back im fine with that... my car doesnt even have springs on it or anything, so im not in a hurry to put it on there...

true... i guess i just wouldnt want to add any other metals... you already have an aluminum head and a steel block... and what i mean is you take out the valve because obvisouly its garbage if its rusted that bad. get either a new hose that goes from the back of the head into the...

why? could you do an exact copy and have it perform the same though? i looked on the english mines website, no luck. rhdjapan.com - no luck...

do the spacers go between the subframe and the chasis, or do they go underneath it? either way, wouldnt a push in poly mount be better like ronniek's?

so i bought this from my friend, has adjustable endlinks, measure about 28.5mm, and is SOLID. just wondering if anybody has one or has ever used one? Im in a debate on whether i sell it or use it... hahaha

just pay attention to the size. there not 40mm, there 40.2mm... and that .2 will be the difference of sealing for blowing out. if you've never installed freeze plugs before, have a GOOD reputable machine shop do it.

freeze plugs are always extra. dorman makes a freeze plug kit, or you can go to napaonline.com, rockauto.com i got my gakset kit from parts dinosaur.com, it cost me like $85shipped.. the headgasket was total garbage, but i bought an HKS one anyways... so i didnt care about that. The only...

why not just get a piece of heater hose and loop it and that way you'll have a new hose in there? obvisouly it broke/ripped for a reason... might wanna take a look at your other coolant lines. and btw, an autoparts store sells fittings MADE for coolant... i dont know if i would want...

that wasnt as much movement as you made it sound... the rubber is there to help isolate the subframe so its not super harsh over EVERY bump and little thing in the road... i would much rather have a "little" play than be like my friend whos dash rattles like crazy just cause of the poly...

so the coolant temp gauge never stops, it just goes STRAIGHT to red? sounds like your thermostat is stuck personally... but i would go and flush the whole system out, go buy one of the kits and put the little valve in the back heater hose where its at its highest so you can flush all of the...

i thought the acis only worked GOOD on an n/a car because theres no positive pressure in the intake manifold? which is why we have a "log" of a manifold with ONE inlet...

a 57trim CT-26 is true drop in though... but you cant use any of the "upgrades" unless you have a exhaust and fuel... get a 57trim from driftmotion, spearco knock off IC, 550's, walbro, afpr, get a lex afm, 3'' downpipe plus 3'' exhaust, and make sure you get a good bov so you dont ruin...

the mr2 alternator is 100amp... just need to swap pulleys. 1992 turbo mr2 with power steering... they cost the same as a replacement oem supra one... and just by googleing "the big 3" for cars i came up with several guides on how to do it, and i think people should do it just to make sure...

that woman is retarded, legally. cant believe she believed any of this...

and if you want to gain anything from a different style intake manifold the FFIM's are better than the stock and the GE...

i know zankoku is retailer of carbon fiber hoods... might wanna get in touch with him and im sure he'd be glad to help you out.

doubters... at least according to the site. WITH TEMS is part number, but it also has the same part number without tems... so i would think that they could work with or without tems... 71214 for the fronts 71215 for the rears i'll check the catalog at work tomorrow, and i'll even take...

my green seat looked fine... just make sure you use some high pressure grease on it... installing it dry wont help the shifting.