yes i am. I plan to run a stock ct26 for now so i don't need anything too crazy. Though i do have a lex maf and ecu for 550s so i suspect i will be up in that 300 zone before long.
my oil pan should be here tomorrow which will allow me to drop my motor in the car this weekend. things to work on right now: do i want to upgrade my clutch? and where should i order OEM parts online? i want to replace a few exhaust studs but there's no local dealer.
less sealing surface area. removing a burr if fine but i wouldn't machine metal away from a matting surface. you're just setting yourself up for leaking coolant and a BHG
people do most of this when upgrading a ct26 as is. When you move up to a t4 and external waste gate you add a few more parts but those parts are supporting factors for bigger power. as for soft lines, down pipes, and inter cooler hose i would argue those are going to be close to the same for...
If i had to guess it was a combination of water leaking into the threaded hole corroding the threads followed by a tap that might have not lined up well enough on the rusty threads. but this is only based on the limited evidence i've seen. I had 3 or 4 head bolt holes that had coolant in them...
pro tip use a Scour Pad (the green ones) and a solvent like brake cleaner to remove all the oil off shims and/or buckets before measuring and you'll find a more accurate reading, often oil can throw you off 1 or 2 thousand.
have clean threads, don't bottom out the stud in the block (i normally go to bottom out then back it put 1/4 turn), and umm don't have an old corroded block?
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