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very nice. i personally like this one better then the one SF. both look good but this one is more along the lines of what i would personally do. i also like the craftiness of puttng the PWM and adjustment knob etc on the bulb holders for easy access and removability (i dont think thats a word...

here is what i was talking about. modify the coilpack bracket and then add two L brackets and you have a mount for the firewall. that setup also used two sets of MSD wires to make the lengths the right sizes wthout them being stretched etc.

take the grills out under the wipers and you can put your hands in there use a bolt/nut combination.

not really...it only has to be enough damage that the insurance company will total it out to save money on repairs which is VERY easy to do with these 20 year old cars that are worth 3K to most insurance companies.

k its your cps... prob need to wiggle the wires around a bit and keep trying to get it to start. the wires are probably hard and brittle. the cps is behind the thermostat housing on the exhaust side. it goes into the head right under the valve cover.

just buy a flaring tool and a new flare fitting and fix it.

::dunce:: lol Cam Position Sensor go see if the tach needle jumps when you crank the car.

you can modify the stock bracket but you will pretty much still need two L-type brackets

probably cps wires...are you getting spark? or an easier thing when you are cranking it is the tach needlge jumping up and down a little bit... if not then its your cps/cps wires.

well if that hks bov is vented to atmosphere....when you accelerate and let off thats why it dies...it richens itself to death because it is expecting air that isnt there because the bov released it. that could be that issue. surging issue could be a bad iacv or maybe just a stuck one...take it...

it wont reach to the firewall on the lip location with stock 7m wires unless you have 2 SETS ;)

how exactly are going to use coils anyways? isnt that a dizzy on there?

make a bracket that holds them and bolt them to the firewall...you dont LITERALLY sit them on the lip.

check them all

have you checked your ic piping for leaks?

holy crap 1st of all dont do anything 30% on the afc.... that will start messing with your timing your doing more bad then good there. not to mention to "compensate for the 550s" (WOW) you would NOT +30% you would -30%. HOWEVER you are running the lex/550 combo so they should cancel each other...

i think his point was our cars idle oil pressure is very low stock. 4.3psi. so when we are idling on MOST cars it will be pretty low...so hes saying if you set it to a low number that isnt ZERO lol it would go off whenever the car is just idling after warming up.

what myth? you mean the FACT that the 7m has a LOT more torque then the 1JZ..especially when modding it and getting up in horsepower. :dunno: as for the 7m in a 240...ive seen an s14 with that swap before...done pretty cleanly also... ill bet it would move pretty nicely.

hey im charging royalties for those who quote me ;) paypal now! :evil2:

lol i dont think you get it... it would have been CHEAPER to have bought a brand new rebuilt UPGRADED ct26 that will bolt on and LOOK stock... then what you did...AND it would make more power....why not try to get your money back on that turbo and just do that.