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As far as I'm aware, the only two headgasket types made for the Supra are the standard composite facing steel core gasket, and the aftermarket multilayer metal head gasket. IMO, a graphite gasket would suffer the same failures as a stock composite gasket. If you're going to have the motor apart...

Ignore IJ. , he's just mad because I filled his shoes with mayonnaise... Welcome to Supramania!

Welcome back man, I had wondered where the hell you were...

Aloshan, I'll be blunt (as if I'm ever anything else....); We don't exactly go out of our way to be mean to people. You don't build a 10,000+ user online community by being dicks to people for no good reason. In this case, there is a good reason... In your case, the reason you get shit around...

You know better than that, people who insist upon making fools of themselves in public rarely get off that easy...

Here's the charging system overview: http://www.supracentral.com/foundation/tsrm/charging-system/ Here's the wiring diagram for the altenator: Full diagram here: http://www.supracentral.com/foundation/tsrm/electrical-wiring-diagrams/

Try asking Wes Beech (The guy who designed and sold your shifter) for help - his forum on this site is located here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?171-Beech-Performance-Motorsports

It was a CT-26, but they are mounted upside down on the Land Cruiser: You really are your own worst enemy...

Beautiful ride man. Very nice. Profile Pic: http://www.supramania.com/forums/profile.php?do=editprofilepic Avatar: http://www.supramania.com/forums/profile.php?do=editavatar

There's no downside to larger wire other than the cost and it's generally harder to route/work with. Think of an oversized wire like an uncrowded highway. Also, place the fuse as close to the power source as possible.

Just wanted to be sure. A 100A fuse isn't worth a lot if your wire will turn into glowing metal at 50A.

This chart might help to determine if the wire you're using is heavy enough to carry 100A.

See you do learn something new every day. I didn't know there were two version of the VIN - I stand corrected.

That's not a valid Toyota VIN... Most of the numbers are there, but some of the values appear to be in the wrong positions and/or there's invalid data in some positions. Go re-check the VIN and make sure you've got the right one. It's NOT the big plaque on the back of the engine compartment...

Yea, it appears Tein has made some changes over the years. I'll dig around and see if I have any of my dealer materials from back then. Might be interesting to see how much the specs have changed over time for each model.

Yea, it appears Tein has made some changes over the years. I'll dig around and see if I have any of my dealer materials from back then. Might be interesting to see how much the specs have changed over time for each model.

Actually I'd call you dumb if you didn't argue with me when I'm clearly wrong. Back when I was a dealer only the Flex were EDFC compatible if I recall correctly, I guess that's changed. Wow that's stupid high spring rate on the SS. They have changed the rates a lot over the years it appears...

Actually I'd call you dumb if you didn't argue with me when I'm clearly wrong. Back when I was a dealer only the Flex were EDFC compatible if I recall correctly, I guess that's changed. Wow that's stupid high spring rate on the SS. They have changed the rates a lot over the years it...

Set your base fuel pressure at idle with the vacuum reference to the AFPR disconnected. Then reconnect the hose. You should see the pressure drop even further at idle when the engine is pulling vacuum. Change it immediately.