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I think it was actually one of the VSV wires. I had relocated mine off of the intake and onto the frame rail just beside it. I had to lengthen the wires with some bullet connectors and one came loose and was touching the motor mount.

Sounds like your headgasket just didn't seal good. Have you been loosing coolant out onto the intercooler from the overflow reservoir?

http://www.jblmk3.com/id92_m.htm#cps_alignment

I just use the stock 3000 pipe but I enlarged the BOV port to the same size as my Blitz SSBOV so it wouldn't flutter.

Hey do what you want, everyone is entitled to their opinion but remember, it is just your opinion. I've never once had anyone point out that my intercooler pipes were PVC or even mention them. I know you're not trying to give me a hard time or anything and if you don't like the PVC that's fine...

I think you guys or at least some of you have my reasons confused. I don't use PVC because it's cheap or easy, those are just pluses. That might have been the reason to try it in the first place but in time I have found that the PVC stays cool to the touch under any and all circumstances. No...

Mine did that once and I found a wire that was grounding it's self out. I fixed the wire so that it didn't touch and ground and it fixed the problem.

You trying to prove a point here or something or just trying to get in the last "technical" word? lol Rust is just a layman term for metal corrosion most commonly in iron because that is the form most people see and recognize. You are right about one thing though, that that term is probably...

"Rust" is just a very non-technical term for metal oxidization, such as iron, aluminum or even titanium. Here's some interesting reading... http://www.popsci.com/popsci/how2/article/0,20967,693558,00.html and http://www.popsci.com/popsci/how2/article/0,20967,1076497,00.html By the...

Well, the covers are either aluminum or magnesium. Probably aluminum but I'm not sure. Rust is simply the result of a metal (including aluminum) reacting with oxygen. Metallic aluminum is very reactive with atmospheric oxygen and will rust away quickly unless it is protected. As aluminum...

Actually, aluminum will rust and does. Ever wonder why mercury isn't allowed on an airplane? :icon_wink It's a trick question!

Well, read this from ARP... "The lubricant used is the main factor in determining friction, and therefore, the torque for a particular installation. Motor oil is a commonly used lubricant because of it’s ready availability. If less friction is desired in order to install the fasteners with less...

Well guys, you do what you want with the coatings but you don't need it if the surfaces are done right. There is a downside to it in some cases. I know of at least two motors that had to be torn down because of that crap clogging things up. When you sandwich that stuff between stainless...

My advise to you would be to get a Greddy (I like the design better) metal gasket and make sure that the surfaces are smooth and completely free of the little grooves left from the machining. Do not put any kind of coating or spray treatment on a metal head gasket. If you are reusing a metal...

Do you think I have a bad name?

I hate to say it but thats a leaking head gasket. You can have perfect compression and no leaks or problems at idle and the gasket will still leak under boost. What happens is that when the block or head is milled or anything, sometimes there are grooves that go from the cylinder to the...

All you have to do is put a 19mm or 3/4" socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn it. You don't have to take the cam sprocket cover off or anything. Make sure the car is in neutral. Just turn it until you have the clearance you need. Also, just as a tip, make sure that you use some good...

It'll give you less leverage so it's not as easy to break it. I've broken one and my friend has broken two. The problem, at least on my car, was that the syncros are worn and when you try to shift fast, it don't want to go and you push anyhow, that fork breaks.

I was in my section of the Vendors