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I believe the GT would spool faster because it is a ball bearing. but I could be wrong

I ended up not doing it, I got one of the valve covers off, and got frustrated and quit. I think I'm going to pay someone else to do it. I just don't have all the tools and stuff I would need to do the timing and all. I'm so pissed

Thanks, but this whole job is shaping up to be harder than I thought

thats the answer I want to hear! Are you sure? cuz thats what it looks like in the tsrm, but wasn't sure. anybody dont it and know for sure?

I'm replacing my HG with a HKS 1.2mm Metal Head Gasket and I was wondering if I would have to take off the cam shaft, then have to re-time. Or can I get to the headbolts and take off the head with the cam shaft still attached?:1zhelp:

I had this problem and turned out my TPS was bad. Dunno if this is the case with you though.

well if you're idling that high you would be wasting just under twice the gas of normal idle, so that could be it, but I can't see it going that far down.

Haha yes! Exactly what I was going to say. The first time that came on for me, I thought it was a bird cage and so did everyone else I showed it to.

definitely wouldnt go over 15, probably safer to go with 12. However, even at stock boost, you run the risk of running your fuel rails dry with a stock fuel pump. just my .02

had my K&N for over a year. Absolutely no complaints. also, easy install

thank you! that is exactly what I need... just read it over and I think I can do this. may take a while, but thats alright, no need to rush things

AWESOME! diagrams are always helpful. what all do I HAVE to take off? just, everything above the head? any special order for dismantle??? Sorry for so many questions, I just REALLY dont want to fuck up.

I'm using the HKS 1.2mm HG with ARP studs Do I have to torque them down in any certain order?

Thank you very much. and i used the search, but just came up with a bunch of "do you think I have a BHG" threads So I just gave up and asked for myself. again, thank you for the links.

I'm replacing the stock headgasket with a new metal one and I need instructions on how to do it. I know you have to torque down the studs in a certain way to a certain ft/lb. so if anyone knows exactly what to do that would be awesome.

like boost fiend said, with those mods you shouldn't HAVE to tune it, unless you turn up the boost with your ebc. If you turn the ebc to stock boost, you should be able to drive it to where ever you're having it tuned on the stock ecu's fuel maps. but I may be wrong...

I know the MAF is bad cuz i had it proffesionally diagnosed. and doesnt the MAF contorl the flow of air? so if its not working, it wouldn't let the proper amount in.

That wouldnt happen in just a few days would it? and I dont think its super-rich. I just know that it's rich due to the bad MAF sensor

I know I'm running rich cuz my MAF sensor is bad. so I'm not gettting the air that I should be. Its hickuping cuz of the lack of sufficient air. I don't have exact numbers, I can smell the extra gas on my exhaust tho. Running just a few days on rich a/f won't do that much right?

If I'm running rich (my MAF sensor is bad) will that hurt my motor a lot, or is it just not healthy. p.s. I'm getting a new one soon, but its my DD and I need to know if I shouldn't drive it till I get the new sensor...