Belt is as tight as i can get it, almost no play, it drank about a quart when first filling it and a little more since bleeding it. I assume there was still fluid in the rack and lines since i didnt drain it all.
Ive spent about the last hour with the front end raised steering lock to lock...
Heres the deal:
87 supra 7mgte auto
Hasnt been on the road since Feb.
Been fixing lots of different things, mainly the timing belt.
Replaced PS pump with reman pump from autozone. New belt, nice and taut. Pulley spinning normally, no slips. Both idle-up vacuum lines connected.
Bled it...
Just want to add my experience with the Summit kit.
First, you dont have to get rid of the stock cooler and buy that stud everyones talking about. This confused the hell out of me at first when planning my mod.
The Summit kit threads right onto where the filter itself once sat using the...
Man, @nickm you got rid of the oil cooler? Hows that goin?
Anyway, first lesson is dont order anything Summit brand. It literally all ended up being defective.
I ordered the driftmotion pieces with welded in/outlets. I also*got some 5/8 stainless steel hose,*a pair of 90 degree AN10 swivel...
Im about to order the summit kit, and was deciding between mounting just under the crossmember near the drain plug, or all the way across the oil pan to where the AC bracket used to bolt into the block.
Who's actually done this and where did you mount yours?
Yes i have searched btw but i...
OP UPDATE:
New timing belt and tensioner installed
I did not use the rope method, both out of fear of damaging the valves and because the only rope i had on hand was too thick.
I tried to fashion a 5 foot 2x4 into a crank holding tool but after 100lbs of torque the 2 holding bolts began to...
Who knows if the 'rope method' for retorqing the crank bolt could damage the valves? Is this only an acceptable procedure when the cams and valves are removed?
OP UPDATE:
The power steering pump was stuck really good. I removed the whole adjusting bracket and finally budged it by putting enough downward pressure on the belt i was trying to loosen. Got the belt off.
Finally got the harmonic balancer off, used the standard puller and managed to do it...
In case anyone else searches for this,
I got the fan clutch off by holding it by one of the nuts with an open ended wrench and after cracking off 3 of them, retightening 1 to crack off the last one.
The retightened one will give enough leverage without having to be too tight to loosen up...
OP UPDATE:
Ok, big development.
I got my hands on a breaker bar, and after taking the fan blades off the fan clutch, attempted to turn the crank to see if the markings align, and the cam pulleys werent moving at all!
The timing belt wasnt flinching one bit. So i have to believe that its...
OP UPDATE:
the 2 cam pulleys are aligned but i havnt taken the bottom cover off, ill check that soon.
Ive removed the circuit opening relay and found that there is no continuity between B and FC. And apparently there should be. Capacitor looks fine and other terminals test ok. Gonna try to...
OP UPDATE:
Ive just replaced and callibrated to spec the new tps sensor i mentioned.
Code 51 officially gone so i can only assume the neutral start switch was and still is completely fine.
Ive also gone ahead and opened the upper timing cover to inspect the belt.
It is definitely worn...
Hey guys, first time poster. Hoping to find someone near my area to come out and help me solve this. Ill cut right to the chase.
This is an 87 mk3 7mgte automatic with about 230000 miles.
I have a no-start condition with codes 12 and 51.
Began 2 months ago. When running, i would shift into...
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