Yea it does flicker quite a bit although it does seem to work fairly well under heavy load, last time I had it dynoed I was running extremly rich even so bad it was off their charts, but seeing as how I just got it out for the year it could be the injectors partially clogged. There is something...
Alright I got my new rebuilt CT-26 back from Arizona Turbo (which I have to say I am very impressed) anyways I shimmed it out to 9 psi now Im getting a lean condition on occasion not all the time but occasionally, and sometimes it runs perfectly. Im thinking its my O2 sensor starting to go bad...
Sounds exactly like mine when I blew the turbo seals, every time I slowed down like at a stop where the turbo was not spinning very fast, I would have smoke rolling out my exhaust, It gives the car a james bond affect but its not very cool.
I'm here in little tomah, car runs but im still waiting on a clutch and trying to decide what to do with the turbo ( I blew the seals). *UPDATE* My new clutch is done, but I'm still waiting on the turbo I have to say the ACT dominates the Mustangs even with the poor boost :bowdown:
you're right fuel cans on the ground, b/c falling gas actually generates static electicity, so after you've filled the can in the truckbed you touch it and ground out then you go bang or maybe more of a ffffffffffffpooooooffff.
Could also be loose shims nowadays the have those stupid sticky type shims that don't stick so they become loose and vibrate. You should be able to pick up an anti squeal silicone from any autostore and put it between the shim and the pad.
I just pulled my tranny out, and There is no need to remove the slave cylinder clutch line, just make sure when you unbolt it that you support it out of the way of the tranny with a tiewrap, also you don't have to remove the engine mounts besides the tranny support. Just make sure you support...
Anything under 93 octane and mine stutters and the engine light comes on, From what I have heard any forced induction car should be running at least 91 octane.
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