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someone else said a similar circuit would work. this one looks much simpler and should work the same, just apply 12v to the DI pin as suggested before so the PWM circuit will activate

Yeah, i know i can run it that way, but in that case anytime my key is just on the pump is running constantly.. Its not a huge deal, but id rather keep it more of the way it was from the factory. I understand when swapping you cant always do that. What i may do is wire it through the "on"...

Thats what i knew haha. anyway, ive done about as much reading as i can, and it doesnt seem there is a way to get a signal wire to my fuel pump from the 1JZ ecu. looks like im going to have to try something different. unless anyone else has an idea?

Also i have voltage pulled directly from the battery for my fuel pump relay, i just need a signal wire to kick the relay on. Even if i had a wire to just signal a ground, i could use that instead, i would run power to my relay, and let the ECU close the ground circuit on the relay..

I never knew there was a US spec 1JZ? the one i have is a soarer unit correct? so i cant simply use the FPC wire to kick the relay? i need a solid signal while cranking then running, i can do without the fuel pump prime, of course that would help, but the starion has no prime from the factory...

From wha I had read it only put out about 8volts at idle and kicked it up To 12 above 1600 rpm. I wasn't sure if anyone else ha used this wire to kick on a normal relay. I wasn't sure if 8volts would be enough to kick the relay on. I'll try the fpc wire and see how it goes. Thanks for the reply.

Im currently wiring a 1JZ into a 1987 mitsubishi starion. My question is which wire from the ECU can i use to power my fuel pump relay? I know on the pin out there are two wires that run to the factory fuel pump relay, but i dont have that. pin D1 and FPC. From what ive read already, you can not...

XS makes a t3 flange header. ill probably stay T3 for a while though

Thanks guys, im trying to stay T3 fro now because i already have the holset and its freshly rebuilt. Yeah i could sell it and go T4 but for all im after i think ill have a pretty fun and healty street car.. Ill probably pick up this manifold and do some extra bracing on it just to be on the safe...

They make a t3 flange for the 1j, I was just curious of the quality of the manifold itself. http://xs-power.com/toyota-turbo-manifolds-5.htm

Are they worth buying? is anyone around here running them? ive tried searching and cant come up with anything. They are a good price, im getting ready to drop my 1JZ into my starion and am looking to go single with my HX35 on there. I want to keep it T3 for now and XS looks like a decient...

The straight six will fit, pretty nicely actually.. I would go 2j but i need it with the R154 and as of right now i can only spare enough to pick up the 1j with the transmission i need. Its going to save me roughly 1500+ dollars right now. I should be able to part my stuff out on my car to pay...

not afraid of a little work, i put tons of work into this car last time around and just keep hitting setback after setback.. I believe the 1jz is going to a much better power plant

I currently have a 1987 mitsubishi starion. I had built the motor in it but have since ran into some problems, looks like ive had a small block issue. haha! So after the ups and downs of my build ive decided its time to move on to bigger and better things. Im currently sourcing a 1jz/R154 swap...