Search results

The amount of effort you put in to be "different" with a UZ swap is hardly worth it. You're spending thousands just to swap in a motor that only made 250hp/260lb when new. You're spending even more if you want to up the power. For all that time and effort, you could have an LS engine, which is...

Not as far as I know, but maybe somebody else with more experience dealing with that platform could comment. What I do know is that they are a relatively cheap platform to buy, mostly reliable, handle amazingly, and have decent power.Plus, they have great aftermarket support.

While I'm not going to jump on the total MK3 circle-jerk that's happening in this thread, I will say that I have driven several SN95 Mustangs, including a Cobra, and I can say that I simply was not impressed. That platform did not age well. However, if you're not truly passionate about owning a...

I sold my Supra because, being a broke college student, I simply couldn't afford to maintain it. I didn't want to see it become a broke down piece of shit by my own hand. I make just enough money to survive, and it sucks. But, I loved my MK3, and some day, when I have the money, I definitely...

While the 7M isn't a bad motor, the 2JZ is simply a better platform to make power with. That isn't really debatable. The 2JZ is a younger, more improved, better designed platform.

Sorry, but the Supra is a big, heavy car and it just looks better as a wide body.

Most people who try to build a 7m dump a lot of money in it, don't do it properly, and then say 'fuck it' and go the JZ route. Just sayin'.

FPFQ Falling price of car, falling quality of ownership.

I ordered the pulley from Rock Auto. I had no idea that was in the EPC. But, I wasn't looking under Heating & Air Conditioning. :dunno:

Is there anywhere you can actually buy it? I looked through the EPC before and it didn't show anything, as you said.

Recently, somehow, the nut for my A/C idler pulley worked itself loose, causing the pulley, and the belt to come flying off as I was driving along. I ordered a new pulley, and I have a nut for it, but it doesn't seem to be fitting right. It seems like there should be a washer or something...

Update: car decided to fix itself. Replaced the ignition coil, still was misfiring. Tested the fuel injector ground terminals on the ECU, and they tested fine. Plugged the connectors back in, started the car and it ran fine. Ugh.

I just hope that all of my fellow Colorado members here are okay. What a tragic, fucked up situation.

If you have an ohm meter and a volt meter, check your ignition coil as per the TSRM. Check the actual distributor itself with a feeler guage. Not just the cap and rotor. Do you know what cylinder(s) your car is missing on? Check to make sure that the fuel injectors for those cylinders are...

A CPS on a 7M-GE. Why?

Haha, why do you say that?

Nevermind. I realized I was being a derp and found the answer to my own question. With all fuel injector terminals, you use E1.

Well, my ignition coil tested out of specification, so it's going to get replaced. I would like to get my question about testing the ECU terminals answered, though.

Other pin meaning what? Should I have the negative connector from my ohm meter on E01 (power ground) and the positive on No. 10 (or whichever pin I'm testing for)?

I'm hating my MK3 right now. It really let me down on a long trip the other day. The tension pulley for the A/C belt came loose and caused it and the belt to fly off while I was driving over a mountain pass. The temperature sensor started to malfunction and caused me to panic. And it developed...