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thats what i hate about companies like JE. Half the specs listed on that label are Imperial measurements and the other half are Metric. Since all the metric measurements are labeled with the units and all the imperial measurements are not, i believe they are measuring the dish in cubic inches.

you come back with some useful information and i can give you some help. Have you checked spark? pull one of the spark plug wires while cranking and check, what is fuel pressure while cranking? Come back with the answers to those and you will be able to get some advice.

wouldnt the 2jz ecu be able to compensate while the engine is cold, and therefor no longer really need the coldstart injector? Then you would just be able to remove it, problem solved there. I would love to hear about a 7M-GE with 2JZ-GE electronics, hello OBD2 MKIII, lol. And damn right getting...

Yeah, because its freaking impossible for there to be a bad part from toyota...:icon_roll kinda f-ed up to tell the guy hes blowing smoke when I know for a fact that there are the instances of bad parts from the factory, hear it all the time from my friend that works at the toyota dealer...

if it looks like its leaking at the firewall the seal in the master is probably gone. Happened on my 88, tho not to the point that i completely lost the pedal. If you are replacing it i would also suggest replacing the slave cylinder and the rubber clutch hose as well when you do it. Tho...

stock pipe is 2.14" OD, crush bent pipe. If you are runnning an N/A i would suggest upping it to 2.5" pipe mandrel bent from the cat back. You should notice a big difference. If you are Turbo, go 3 inches or bigger. The bigger the better with a turbo, since you are just trying to get the exhaust...

I've heard good and bad on the FAL fans. The biggest complaint about them is the fact that the relay they provide you with sucks big time. Heard of it coming apart within a few weeks of install. So if you do it, make sure to pick up a quality relay and wire it up yourself. I myself prefer the...

I gotta say that the worst part about all that is he has 6 supras sitting there, and couldnt manage to work with what he had and piece one good one together out of them. + if that was me, all six of those supras would be running. Its a shame to let a beautiful car like the mk iii sint there...

if anything pushing in the clutch is going to take a load off the engine. are you sure that the noise is coming from the engine and that you dont have a throw out bearing noise? or....was that trans gone through before you installed it, or was it a straight junk yard trans? makes no sense that...

hahaha. king of the electrical diagnosis!!! ok, maybe not, just had the same thing happen on my car. lol, its sad how crappy the quality on those reman alternators can be.

Sounds to me like your voltage regulator is bad. The only way you would be getting 18volts out of it is if it was going full field. Take the alternator back and get another one and see if that helps at all.

Where did you come up with these numbers??? where did you manage to find a one piece driveshaft that weighs in at 6 pounds? cuz the stock two piece weighs in at a little over 21. The lightest driveshaft available for the car weighs in at 11 pounds. Dropping an a/c system out of any car will...

Amen, brother! Im tired of all the turbo guys telling us our cars are worthless. Well, no shyte compared to a car thats turbo'd, but you are comparing apples to oranges. Lets talk about all the newer N/A cars out there now adays that our aging 3 liters can outrun. I smoked a brand new civic...

nooooo...its not just any wire. Its a fusible link. Go to Toyota and tell them you need a fusible link for the alternator circuit for your car. A regular piece of wire in its spot is a foolish thing to do as it runs the possibility of starting another fire. As far as your charging issue goes...

HAHAH, no kidding on those brushes. I had to replace one right after i did the tune up on my 88, driving it after putting it back together and the lights came on. Took it off and apart to see what went wrong. Burnt the brush leads clean off. Replaced it with a duralast from autozone because i...

one way to confirm it is you can take your car down to any repair shop and pay for them to do a block test. Its a simple thing, they run your car with the radiator cap off with a special tester that has a fluid in it that changes color in the presence of exhaust gases. as the exhaust that is...

my 88 NA used to do that driving it hard. Once i got out of it and drove normal the temp gauge would climb to over 3/4 then drop back down. Start by replacing your thermostat (extremely cheap, and never a bad idea IMHO) then jack the front of the car up to make sure that your radiator cap is up...

A stock thermostat for your engine should open up at about 190 degrees. Typical running temperature on gasoline engines is between 190 and 210, not sure if its any different on 7m's. If it gets any higher than 215 id start worrying, but if you arent getting hotter than 210 then you are fine.

Just because the fork is moving doesnt mean that everything is good hydraulically. Check to make sure your clutch is completely bled out, i have had that issue on my 88. pop the cap on the clutch fluid reservoir, then go underneath with a ten mm wrench and crack open the bleeder screw on the...

A windage try is never really going to hurt you, most modern engines are built with some type of tray in the oil pan, its a good way of preventing any oil sloshing around in your pan from whipping up into the crank while its spinning. Good idea if your car is going to be making any hard high...