You paid $200 for them to slap some bondo on the rust and paint it with rattle can silver? Man...
That shit will be rusted through 3 times as bad by this time next year.
Do it right, or don't do it at all. Doing it right involves a welder, sheetmetal, and either skill, or lots of money.
Ah...good old new england rust. I just scrapped the shell I'd been de-rusting all winter. Once it starts, it completely takes over. Hopefully you don't have that situation, because if you do, don't even bother trying to get ahead of it.
SGinNE
I see you're still using a milling machine as a beaver-tooth metal hatchet. Ask somebody locally to show you how to properly use a mill....it will make your work much more professional looking and won't wreck your endmills. Otherwise, looks like you're making good progress.
SGinNE
I used to have a "Nice" one and it totally sucked. Unless its sitting on pavement, your car will start rusting away sitting on dirt / grass. If you're in an area that gets snow, they collapse all the time. There is a guy down the road with a nice S2000 which now needs a new hood, conv. top, and...
Doesn't look like you have adjustable dampers, and that is the only thing which I would pay attention to for the drag strip. It goes without saying that your adjustable suspension links are there only to provide a good alignment which you should have already done by now. Beyond that, you don't...
I just removed the entire suspension from a very rusty car I just scrapped, and surprisingly ALL of the upper control arms came right off without any issue. The lower camber adjusting bolts on all corners needed to be cut out however...not a single one could be loosened or driven out with a...
Yes, and the more fluid in the brake line heats up, the more volume it takes up. Actually, the fluid doesn't expand enough to do this on its own, but if you have a little bit of air in the line, you're going to see expansion when it gets hot. Brakes that drag are known to "self apply"...
No sarcasm. That is some strong work. You don't just "build" a frame like that. It's obvious he either did/does this for a living or as a serious night job. I'm sure he would also charge as much as any other pro shop to build a cage...good work comes at a price, always.
SGinNE
Old car parts can fail without warning. Especially ones with old rubber/neoprene diaphragms, etc. Sitting all winter in a dry garage could have caused something to dry out to the point where the first time its cycled in the spring causes a crack. I'd bet $5.00 on needing to replace the booster...
If I were racing and I thought the strength of the cage might be the difference between walking away with a good story vs. being carried out in a stretcher than I wouldn't trust amature hobby welds or unqualified cage design in any way, shape, or form. Cages are there to save a life....if you...
Where in NH are you? I'm finding more and more New England folks these days...nearly enough to have a supra club or something! Nice start. Its so hard to find good shells up here.
SGinNE
Well if the guy builds approved cages with DOM tube, certified welds, etc, than you're all set. I'm sure that level of work costs however, but you knew that. Just don't let somebody with a flux core mig welder and a pile of SCH40 pipe anywhere near your car.
Good luck.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.