Recent content by SC61 MK3

Toyota oem gasket with arp studs will handle 400whp all day with a SAFE TUNE. I know because I've been running the same setup for a few years now with no problems and its my daily driver. MHG no doubt is better but only if you can resurface both the head and block for it or it will fail...

Nice build! I've been over 400whp for a few years now on a new oem hg and arp studs with no problems.

I didnt know there was a rod/reel combo that can cover anything from 1-100lbs... Catching a 2lb bass on a rod setup for a 100lb tarpon is like using a rocket laucher to go rabbit hunting. I have 5 different rod/reel setups that cover just freshwater and light-medium inshore saltwater fishing...

Why don't you ask them?

Haha ok glad you figured it out. Some 6.5" speakers are listed as oversized and actually 6.75" so a little trimming is needed to squeeze them in.

Considering the staggering amount of details in the first post, I figured a picture would be easiest. You realize you didn't say what size speakers or location and you just want us to throw darts in the dark. Good luck

Why on earth would you want to run an extra 15 ft. Of wire when there is a perfectly good source 2 feet away?

40 amp fuse for the pump is way to big, I used a 25 amp. Most relays can only handle 30 amps anyways so I'd rather replace a fuse than a relay. And yes the easiest way is to get a "fused distribution block" with one input (from the battery) and two outputs (to the amp and FP)

Come man thats bullshit, we know that only happens when vtec kick in

No shit, my god I hope no one would just hook a constant power up the fuel pump... I assumed we were talking about doing a fuel pump rewire and instead of running a power wire all the way up to the battery, we were just grabbing it from a distro block shared with an amplifier.

Why? There is no difference, everything goes back to the battery anyways... just make sure they're fused separately

Take some pics

It will not. I have done this before with much bigger amplifiers and had no issues. No cap needed. I even used a volt gauge hooked up to the rear distribution block to monitor fuel pump voltage. It was fine, just when you want to do long full boost pulls turn the stereo down to be safe

No cap needed, you need to look at the fuse on the side on the amplifier to determine its max current draw and add the current draw of the fuel pump to determine the main fuse rating. I would also suggest a distribution block with seperate fuses for the amp and pump in the trunk as close to each...

To the above comment about checking fuses, I always give each fuse a little push to make sure they are in all the way. Than have my multi meter negative probe to a known good ground and use the positive probe to check voltage on each side of the fuse one at a time instead of just check...