Recent content by nextproject

If you have a large enough reservoir and an efficient enough exchanger it really shouldnt heatsoak at all. Lots of people use those tiny little 1 or 2 gallon reservoirs. Great for a drag race car where its only making a single pass and then cooling off. If you're driving that sucker and boosting...

well i read up on how the FPU vsv system works and i dont think a malfunctioning VSV would cause me to run leaner at WOT, i'll disconnect the hose from the regulator and do a couple WOT runs to see if there's a difference. I think the screw in the MAF was messed with, i got a used one on here...

pros are that you can get better cooling depending on the setup you run. cons are that its more complex. You still have to run some sort of heat exchanger on the front of your car, you must use a reservoir, although the larger the reservoir and more efficient the exchanger you run the better...

hmm. i guess i need to try and figure out why its running this lean. could be the pump, could be the wideband sensor itself, could be the jdm ecu, doesnt the fuel pressure up solenoid raise fuel pressure during full boost situations? that may not be working, the only codes i've got are for speed...

so im running lean.

I have nothing to base my wideband data on because i have no clue what the toyota engine is "happy with" regarding boost, so before i start increasing past the 7psi i currently have (only other mods are 3" elbow, 3" exhaust from the elbow back, open-element intake, fidanza fw, TRE 255 intank...

yeah i figured there was a reason why there was no number listed on the site. didnt feel a need to google it. if theres enough room i'll just vband it, better seal anyway. thanks for the help though.

i guess worst case i'll just hack that 3-bolt flange off and v-band it. i'll shoot them an email, they dont have a phone number on their website.

I need one, or else im going to have to have one cut via waterjet=expensive. Talking about the downpipe flange, NOT the 4-bolt turbo outlet flange for the elbow.

im thinking "B", Black wire from FL "ALT" in 8-3 of TSRM is the main power wire with 100A fused directly from the battery. Then "S", White wire from FL "AM1" in 1-1 is a 40A constant power. Then "IG", Black/yellow is 15A fused from the ignitiion switch or in my case any "key on" switched power...

I've got the 7mgte in my volvo and running (idling at least, still completing the cooling sytem and intercooler setup) and i've gotta figure out which wires of the 3 in the alternator pigtail need to be connected to what. I figure i could randomly start hooking each wire up to switched power...

well because it wasnt as simple as it is when the engine's in the car it came out of. So i looked at the wiring diagram, found the wire i needed to hook up to the test light, found the terminals i needed to jumper in the diagnostic connector, and then i realized that it wouldnt have any codes...

lol yeah, anything's possible. i think i'll check the air gaps today and then i'll just snip the connector completely off and run a jumper harness from the cps outside the car to the ecu and see if i don't get some sort of signal that way. just boggles the mind because it worked alright...

i have to rig up a test light to check for codes although im certain that missing cam/crank signal codes will be there. ok so the cps generates its own signal. didnt know that. i figured that there must be some kind of voltage going TO the cps. yes i removed the cps to replace the seal and i...

I've gotten to the part in my swapping a 7mgte into my '87 volvo 740 where its time to get her to at least IDLE. Well she cranks over just fine, ecu has power at 4 places with the key on (the places its supposed to have power) and good grounds. The injectors have power, just no ground...