Recent content by MikesFixedRoof

So while checking a few things under the hood I discovered that little vacuum hose on the bottom of the stock intake accordion boot was off. Think that could be it?

My apologies for the late response. Work has been killing me this past week. To answer your question, no it's actually rich all the time, until it reaches a certain temperature. I watched the wideband closely the other morning. Once the gauge goes through it's warm up cycle (15-20 seconds) it...

I'm very interested to know what you're thinking a possible cause of this is JJ

Hmm. If that's true then the car does it in both open and closed loop until it reaches a certain temp. What about on a cold start below 40 degrees F?

I know how an engine with an ECU operates. I know that on cold starts the computer reads signals from various sensors (except the O2) to calculate how much fuel is needed, fires a cold start injector, and continues to run in a richened state until the computer sees that it's no longer needed. In...

So I've almost given up on trying to figure out the cause of this issue. While driving on a cold engine (below operating temp) I have to be very smooth with the throttle, otherwise my wideband shoots down to the rich end of the gauge (9, maybe 10:1) for a couple of seconds, the engine...

Didn't find the testing procedure in the TSRM until after the fact. Oh well. Either way I've come to the conclusion that it is in fact the sensor on the sending unit that is faulty.

So I pulled the instrument panel today, and found this bulb & socket on the back of the panel directly behind where the gas gauge is. Is this it? or do you have to peel the panel apart to get to it?

I was actually a bit surprised at how many people I found with actual problems with the sender/gauge when I was researching my issue and really found nobody with the same problem. The Digidash cars seem to be worse.

Ah ha. I was wondering what that little cylindrical thing on the fixed arm with the copper wire was! So that sensor doesn't really go bad huh? Damn. I guess now it's a matter of how badly I really want the light to work again.

Nope. Between all the problems I've heard people have had with the sender, and the fact that it was alot easier to pull it out than the instrument cluster, I figured I'd rather start from the sender end.

So yesterday I decided to remove and inspect the fuel sender unit in my '90 turbo because the low fuel light had stopped coming on a while back, yet the gauge always seemed to work fine and stay rather accurate. So I removed the unit, and the protective cover over the coil winding and contact...

When I got my car it had what looked like the original crappy boot and a pretty ugly universal bare wood ball shifter. Luckily, my Dad had just replaced the OEM knob on his MR2 for a TRD Ball-type knob, so I quickly swiped his old one :naughty: which wasn't in bad shape. It's heavy as hell too...

Ahh okay I gotcha. I made a new ground strap today for the coil pack plate to replace my fraying original one. I then considered making another strap and daisy chaining that fuel rail stud to, say, those ecu grounds on the intake manifold. Any thoughts?

Do you mean besides the little ground wire that goes from the coil pack plate to the fuel rail stud? And how did you do the coil packs?