Recent content by jesse_rc1991

I have autozone ceramic pads and im sure i broke them in properly.i even cross hatched the rotors again with and rotor hone tool and still had it. Im going to give these a shot. Hatter did theses do the trick, any rehoning of the rotors again or different pads?

im having this problem. Care to explain and give some part numbers. your post was a big vague.

Cant comment on angle but i have an interesting story. I had bought a steel one piece for my 2jz r154 91 supra from shaftmasters and had gotten a vibration at 70mph as soon as i put it in. Stupid me thinking that "this shaft is brand new and should do this" lead me to replace parts that didnt...

any idea if this will be availiable around tax season this up coming year, that way i can focus more on this than buy a better clutch for my r154.

Any update to this?

How is this not in the general mkIII section. Im in for the updates and pics of how this setup is installed

Wanted to knwo if those using the orielly bearing instead of the ford bearing which one did you get? I have a 1991 turbo with a r154, so would it be the 6061(1.257 i.d.) or the 6062(1.181 i.d.)

Ahh i see then. Ill have to contact my buddy at mercedes then, but would they leave alot of brake dust like the ebc's? Never used them, ive just read they shower your rims with brake dust

Really? I thought autozone was its own thing as i have used autozone gold ceramic pads on other cars and have never had a problem. Ive never used powerstop i just saw them when on rockauto when i was getting the brake setup and thought the ceramic would work well. Ive seen ceramic wagners...

i got powerstop ceramic pads. the breakin I do is highway speed to about 30mph with moderate pedal about 5 to 7 times

I got my set up going good and stopping power is much better. My only peeve is i get brake squeal early in the day for a few feet but great after that, i have the slotted powerstop and ceramic pads also which i thought shouldnt squeal this early. Did anyone else run into this? And yes i did...

it would but you could use some marking compound on the tie rod, insert and tighten it, and remove it to see where its contacing the bevel inside and make adjustments this is where the spare knuckle somes in handy as you can do this off car with a spare tie rod. plus the castle nut is made to...

I like this idea better than cutting and rewelding the knuckle arm, to me it seems more "safe." If someone would make, or cnc, a knuckle with a shorter arm and angle it in toward the engine just slightly to avoid the slight rotor contact i feel it would be perfect. I fear though it may be in...

are the rears about the same depth with no spacers?

any update on this OP?