What did you do to your supra today? Pics

Silver MK3

New Member
Jan 24, 2011
1,517
0
0
Madison, AL
Doat;2006391 said:
I remember reading the pre 89 Mk3s were 28mm or something like that and the post 89 are 30mm or 32mm I'll have to look into it again. Do the whiteline bars bolt right in? I am at a crossroads with bushings people suggest OEM for what I want and that seems to be the better option.

I think it's 91+ has thicker sway bars at the rear. The energy suspension bushings for our cars are made for the thicker sway bars found on the newer MK3's, Im 99% sure the front bars stayed the same for all years. I know that the energy suspension bushings did not fit the rear sway bar on my 87 though, I had to get the universal kit. If you are putting in an aftermarket sway bar then it doesn't matter, you would use the bushings that come with it.

Doat;2006393 said:
I've heard poly bushings are noisy and harsh.

They come with a special super sticky grease that you are supposed to smother them in. I'm sure they are not as soft and cushy as the OEM ones, but I don't think it would be that bad. The grease should also stop them from squeaking. I have poly bushings on my sway bars and steering rack and they don't make a sound. If I decide to do my bushings when I do the rest of the suspension I will probably replace them with the poly ones. I remember reading that when Lotus was designing the suspension for these cars they had it set up to be stiffer, but Toyota changed it to make the car ride just a little smoother.
 

atmperformance

New Member
Sep 17, 2013
757
0
0
San jose
Doat;2006378 said:
What do you guys think about Battle Version links? I am looking into upgrading my suspension, coilovers, toe and camber links, traction bar, control arms, and bushings but not sure what to get for the links and traction bar and bushings. I am going more for comfort and street use but would like to be able to have fun on the track nothing crazy like going for laptimes just to have fun and get to know the car.
you won't go wrong with battle version arms. they were early users of jointed designed for automotive use not just industrial joints and Alex is one cool mofo.
 

yhatzee89

Joe Yantz
Aug 31, 2012
977
0
16
San Antonio, TX
Doat;2006391 said:
I am at a crossroads with bushings people suggest OEM for what I want and that seems to be the better option.

I'm right there with you on the indecision part. I think I'm going to end up doing a combination of both. Brand new factory for most of bushings with poly for the sway bars, steering rack and possibly even poly rear subframe spacers, that way I get my comfy ride without the squeak that will eventually show up in most of the car, but a little bit of added stiffness in certain places
 

Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
2,599
0
36
Houston, TX
Thank you all for the info and yhatzee I like your idea of using both poly and oem bushings have poly bushings for steering and such and for ride comfort use OEM bushings in those places. So what bushings do you guys recommend and what places should I use OEM for comfort and poly for better steering and such? I hear the RonnieK bushings are great, mixed things on Energy. I did also read that Battle Versions are great and Alex is a great guy who knows his stuff that is what made me lean more toward them. Are Beech Performance the only control arms we can get now days? They are expensive but I hear they are great.
 

yhatzee89

Joe Yantz
Aug 31, 2012
977
0
16
San Antonio, TX
You could also get a set of Lipp traction arms (I got a set for when I get to that point) they are awesome quality, but make sure you get the steel ones, the aluminum sets are prone to cracking
 

Chris_87_Turbo

New Member
Nov 5, 2013
261
0
0
Princeton, TX
Energy bushings are decent bushings. I've used them on a lot of my Honda builds over the years and replaced bushings for people when I was a mechanic with energy bushings. They last a while if installed properly.

Chris


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Oct 11, 2005
3,816
13
38
Thousand Oaks, CA
Stock bushings do not work with Lipp traction arms, You will be poly on those ones, and they do make weird bark sounds when traversing large bumps even with the sticky lube in place.
 

jdmfreak

PACNW
Oct 8, 2010
2,232
0
0
north clark co. WA.
emyjupu9.jpg



Happy now?
 

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,663
5
38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I like how you have the sig pic in your display...


Took the soup out for a romp tonight. Wanted to run it for an hour.. so went on the "freeway" (Stoney Trail and Deerfoot for those familiar with Calgary)

Had a code 14 and 31 to start with... (from start up...) after reading it, I cleared it. Seems to be something to do with the idle setup when its cold. After clearing the code, it popped on while I was starting off four a second once or twice and then never came back.

Gotta say... if your used to a BPU kicking you in the pants with just a CT26 upgrade... this SP6262 has turned my car into a monster.. lol. I have it limited to 10 psi until final tune just to be safe, but I have to learn how to handle this beast. Was passing a couple smart asses that blew by me and then boxed me in (not sure what was up with that) while I was just tooling along at slightly over the speed limit... and in fourth gear at about 110-120 kph I decided just to go WOT...

Kind of a mistake as I wasn't ready for how fast I was going to shoot from 120 kph to 160 kph. I could feel the rear wheels sliding slightly to the right. Now... I have to imagine if I was at 19-21 psi...
Seems I am going to have to take a bit of time and figure out how to drive this beast without killing myself.
 

Backlash2032

New Member
Sep 20, 2010
1,823
2
0
Nebraska
Been there, done that. Even checked every coupler with soapy water. Still drops pressure and fuel cuts early

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk