Went to the dyno today and got horrible results - AEM V2 PNP 1JZ
- Thread starter OneJArpus
- Start date
MK3Hitman21;1813412 said:
I cant remember, i think it stood rich but cant remember off the top of my head i'll try it this weekend. I have an AEM Boost solenoid.
ifyouaint1sturlast;1813408 said:
I will check the grounds add some if i must and try another ignitor
The wideband reading is important. Boost controller setup? Check your gain, set, and start boost on boost controller. But it sounds like a voltage drop somewhere. Make sure your alternator is good. Or a incorrect wire install. When a car won't rev past 5k the wideband is saying something.
breaking up under load and no load at 5k RPM
ignitor is an aftermarket unit?
Autodwell limiting control built into the ignitor? What are your dwell settings?
In short, sounds like not enough dwell time to charge the coils in the amount of time needed at that RPM.
ignitor is an aftermarket unit?
Autodwell limiting control built into the ignitor? What are your dwell settings?
In short, sounds like not enough dwell time to charge the coils in the amount of time needed at that RPM.
figgie;1813454 said:
Thanks for coming in here Figgie.
There have been instances where the aftermarket coils can handle the power like stock coils can. SP in Chicago changed out Super Spark coils and other aftermarket coils with stock coils with over 80K and they worked better.
With what Figgie said I'd check:
-Plugs
-Coils
-Igniter
-Cam Sensor (I know you said it checked out fine)
-Crank Sensor (I know you said it checked out fine)
MK3Hitman21;1813427 said:
AEM Solenoid non polarity wires per AEM. I'll check my alternator tonight. And i will check
figgie;1813454 said:
Ignitor is original 1jZ
Correct, breaking up free & under load revs
point me in the correct direction to know what i'm looking for
IBoughtASupra;1813457 said:
I have a friend who's going to lend me an ingniter and i'm looking for coils to try, plugs i'm going to gap at .28
give it a try, then i'll test the CPS' again
The alternator wiring is in my JZ thread if you need it. Doesn't sound like that is the problem as if it was, it would happen on the stock ECU as well.
Very true. So it has to be the base map its either making the car running to rich or to lean. Which either one he doesn't know. Also what is the fpr readings. Idk if he answered the boost controller question is there one installed? But I had a similar problem a month ago. It was my fuel pump went out the guy I got the car from said there was a walbro in there pull it out and a Carter fuel pump was inside. Switch that out still ran lean come to findout I pinched the line on the fuel filter. Got it running then I kept blowing the spark plugs out and they were gap down. Switch to a colder plug ngk iridiums they are nines if that makes since. And fix my Greddy boost controller setting cause they where Off. The gain was set to high and all it did was sound like it hit fuel cut and spuder at 5k make noise.
How could boost control be the issue when it breaks up in neutral???????
IMO that should be shut off until the it runs well in the first place. Anyways......
I would like to redirect to this^ post. Although we have established a stock ignitor is being used. As far as i can tell there is only one question unanswered. This may not be the answer but at least we could move forward.
You have to weed through the BS sometimes, while andy was helpfull for getting figgie in here, him and hitman are basically useless otherwise.
IMO that should be shut off until the it runs well in the first place. Anyways......
figgie;1813454 said:
I would like to redirect to this^ post. Although we have established a stock ignitor is being used. As far as i can tell there is only one question unanswered. This may not be the answer but at least we could move forward.
You have to weed through the BS sometimes, while andy was helpfull for getting figgie in here, him and hitman are basically useless otherwise.
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mkiiichip;1813701 said:
IBoughtASupra
In this instance, it is not about power handling as it breaks up with no load. This points to dwell settings or ignitor is lacking (bad ground, horrible power conncetion, dirty input signal etc).
To the op.
Dwell settings. I can not answer where that is in the AEM system. With that said. Since you are not running CDI, dwell setting MUST be set. This is not optional in a standard ignition system. The 1jz ignitor never autodwelled.
Unknown gap. For all intents and purposes, you could be runnin a .5 GAP and not even know it! Don't eye ball, MEASURE.
mkiiichip;1813701 said:
Chip,
What is your problem? What posts in this thread were useless with incorrect info? I agree with the boost setup not having a factor but did you see my post saying anything that it did? Please point out the issues with my posts here and how I am pretty much useless. Don't drag your anger from you own thread, I apologized for that in your thread, and left with no future comments planning to be made.
Figgie,
On the stock ECU, a customer had broken ground wires on the two tabs that bolted to the intake manifold. After fixing that, the break up the car had went away. Since I seen it happen first hand and these harness' are not getting any younger in age, it could have been a possibility so it just made sense to rule it out, no?
The comment about alternator wiring was incase he wanted to check it after reading hitman's comment.
IBoughtASupra;1813835 said:
Andy
The ground are always a source for trouble especially with the age of these cars. I like to cover the bases and will always check for broken ground wires to the coils, ignitor. Lacking of proper grounding on the engine itself (usually a direct connect to battery now a days).
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figgie;1813831 said:
My iridiums were gapped at .028 the new plugs were throw in to see if it would change (either do it earlier, later, or stop all together. It did not, it acted the same exact way)
I will be checking my grounds and adding some if needed to see if that helps.
Only grounds needed would be:
Chassis Ground To Negative Post
Engine Block To Negative Post
There is one from the firewall to the head but many members remove or it's been damaged throughout the years with little to no effects.
Figgie,
Yes, that's why I said it doesn't hurt to check them, a visible check and multimeter is all that is need to verify they are fine plus they are easily accessible being on the side of the manifold.
OP:
Did you try a different igniter yet? I know you got the AEM from 70Dreams, correct? I have the same one, what happened to the base map that was initially loaded?
Chassis Ground To Negative Post
Engine Block To Negative Post
There is one from the firewall to the head but many members remove or it's been damaged throughout the years with little to no effects.
Figgie,
Yes, that's why I said it doesn't hurt to check them, a visible check and multimeter is all that is need to verify they are fine plus they are easily accessible being on the side of the manifold.
OP:
Did you try a different igniter yet? I know you got the AEM from 70Dreams, correct? I have the same one, what happened to the base map that was initially loaded?
IBoughtASupra;1813852 said:
Thats what i have, when we were on the dyno he checked the ohms on the grounds around the car and said they were good.
Yea my head to firewall ground was broken, i put a new wire there when i did my 1j swap 3 years ago
IBoughtASupra;1813835 said:
I just dont like how when figgie came in and asked some poignant questions and you post right away, going in a totally different direction. It seems like you have no idea what figgie was talking about, but needed to post something anyways. It makes things very difficult to proceed effectively. We still have not established the OP's settings to control the ignitor. These are important.
figgie;1813831 said:
So the ignitor does not set its own dwell? I thought it needed like a 3ms signal at all RPM's, and it set the charging dwell automatically?
OP what are your current ignition settings?
Checking grounds is fine, but they have been checked, and i think this setup has run in the past, just with a different ecu? This is what makes me think this is a settings issue.
Chip,
OP stated he won't go into the AEM software as he is not sure how to an does not want to take chances that he could mess up something.
So that is WHY I posted about grounds as that is something simple to check WITHOUT disapproving the dwell settings could be wrong.
OP stated he won't go into the AEM software as he is not sure how to an does not want to take chances that he could mess up something.
So that is WHY I posted about grounds as that is something simple to check WITHOUT disapproving the dwell settings could be wrong.
mkiiichip;1814053 said:
3ms?
Holy crap that is a massive amount. I have calculated lots of ignition coils and rarely do they go above 2ms. If in fact the dwell is 3ms and it ran in the past. Then that points to the coils being fried. WAY to much dwell. Reason is. after the point of coil saturation, the current increases which starts to cook the coils. Not enough dwell and the coils don't charge enough.
Average about 1.4ms charge time.
Op
by chance you have the coil specs on hand? mH sizing of the primary and secondary windings?