Went to the dyno today and got horrible results - AEM V2 PNP 1JZ

OneJArpus

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I went to the dyno today and have 7 hours of being there and doing things i have major issues.


It will not free rev or underload go past 5000-5500, it just breaks up so bad. The tuner tried everything with the AEM and couldn't get it to go. He mentioned that the teeth count for the fuel was a little high, 18 vs 6 on a 2j he did a few days ago. He also tried locking the timing at a certain amount but when reving it would just go retard. No check engine light no problem codes nothing... His best advice was to look into the ignition system, coils (which are aftermarket new), ignitor, and so on so forth :(
 

empera

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Mar 30, 2005
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ouch. Where'd u go to tune it?

theres gotto be a much more simpler explanation for the break up. What was changed besides the ecu since the last time it ran fine?
 

Enraged

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Mar 30, 2005
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hate to ask, but has your tuner tuned an AEM before? I'm not sure about the V2, but the V1 can be a bit cryptic with some of the functions, and an experienced tuner will know all the tricks.
 

IBoughtASupra

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I assume that was Aaron's kit, hopefully he will chime in here.

The 1JZ and 2JZ all run the same crank gears, cam and crank sensors along with every other sensor for the motor.

What do you mean only revs to 5,000, does it rev to that point and misfire or does it rev there and act as if it's at the limiter?

On the stock ECU, did your car have any codes?

Is there any errors for any sensor in the EMS? You can check that yourself.

What plug/gap are you running?

Did he try running a 2JZ base map? It's all the same timing components, excluding the belt, whether you are on a 1JZ, 1.5JZ or 2JZ.
 

OneJArpus

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IBoughtASupra;1813169 said:
I assume that was Aaron's kit, hopefully he will chime in here.

The 1JZ and 2JZ all run the same crank gears, cam and crank sensors along with every other sensor for the motor.

What do you mean only revs to 5,000, does it rev to that point and misfire or does it rev there and act as if it's at the limiter?

On the stock ECU, did your car have any codes?

Is there any errors for any sensor in the EMS? You can check that yourself.

What plug/gap are you running?

Did he try running a 2JZ base map? It's all the same timing components, excluding the belt, whether you are on a 1JZ, 1.5JZ or 2JZ.

Tuner is Cunha from CLM Motorsports, He messes with AEMs all day long, he tunes supra's, civics, and other imports. Personally i don't know him i went because of referrals.


The car ran fine with the stock ecu before, i made some changes before putting the AEM In. I did the following


Removed Greddy BCC
Wired in a GM 3Bar Map sensor using new wire tapped into the old wire for that map (while keeping the stock wiring JUST in case i had an issue i can drive away on a stock computer)

I had code 12, 13, 22, & 31 last week. I put in a new Coolant temp plug that i broke, i took off the rear CPS of the head and found a piece of the old connector lodged in the part that locks preventing the new clip from setting correctly. I replaced the sensor as it was cracked by the mounting hole (used part). Once i did that ALL the codes disappeared and the car still ran great.

I took out the SAFC

Installed a new wideband

Thats it....

I have yet to get a check engine code...




Problems when AEM is plugged in:
Free reving under 5k is fine, you can hold it at 3k no problem, but as soon as it starts to get to 5,000 it sounds like a 2step. When under load the same thing, when that happens the tach GOES CRAZY and drops to 1k then back up to 5 and just dances all over the place.


OEM Computer plugged in after AEM:

First pull it did the same exact thing like the AEM, the 2nd run it went to redline but the power band wasn't smooth. It dropped and raised multiple times.


I drove the car home and didnt bother with it as i was disappointed so tomorrow i'll see how it acts...




Aaron was very helpful with giving me the base map, but with it as is it could not start the car, some triggers were set differently and it wouldnt turn on. He did some changes and it started just fine.
 

IBoughtASupra

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The tuner could of reset each sensor to make sure they were all right. Everything is the same as the 2JZ which all those sensors settings are available pre-calibrated from AEM.

How are the main grounds on your car? The coils are what brand? Intake manifold ground wires, there are two sets.

Plug/gap?

Did you set the correct MAP sensor in the AEM?

Who made the changes to have the car start up, Aaron?
 

OneJArpus

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IBoughtASupra;1813186 said:
The tuner could of reset each sensor to make sure they were all right. Everything is the same as the 2JZ which all those sensors settings are available pre-calibrated from AEM.

How are the main grounds on your car? The coils are what brand? Intake manifold ground wires, there are two sets.

Plug/gap?

Did you set the correct MAP sensor in the AEM?

Who made the changes to have the car start up, Aaron?

He did a sensor check and said everything came back fine
GM 3 Bar Part # Correct with a 3bar
Grounds - one on intake manifold, one on block, one to body those are just the ones i remember off the top of my head.
Coils - Aftermarket brand as my OEM ones were completely shot.

I am trying to find the screen he was on to show what i was looking at.
 

OneJArpus

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I had Iridiums NGK I beileve IK20 or something i'll double check switched with NGK VPower (i'll get part #'s when i go to work i left the box in the car)

IBoughtASupra;1813192 said:
Try loading all 2JZ setting and see. What injectors are you on?

I have 550cc MKIV
I don't know how to mess with this thing. I'll read up on how to save what is on there now, then load up something else. It will be awhile before i take on that task as i do not feel comfortable enough to do it right now.
 

IBoughtASupra

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The aftermarket coils are what brand? There have been instance where people have used the "Super Spark" replacement coils or cheaper aftermarket coils and they break up under boost.
 

OneJArpus

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Coils - forecast - part # f3000-138869

plug gap unknown with new plugs - it was .30 on iridium - i will regap new plugs and test again.

I think its ignition because the tachometer goes jumps all over the place when it happens. If it was just a misfire from spark plugs i did not see that happen when i had that spuddering issue before i gapped my iridiums.

Yes i have a resistor pack
 

IBoughtASupra

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Hmm.

Checked the cam and crank sensors? Ohm them and see but its not the best test though. Have any spares you can try?

Under theory, the AEM outputs a signal to the tach. So it gets it's reading of RPM based on the cam and crank sensors, so those should be checked. Possibly could be an igniter. It's a theory, hopefully figgie can see this and chime in.
 

OneJArpus

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IBoughtASupra;1813403 said:
Hmm.

Checked the cam and crank sensors? Ohm them and see but its not the best test though. Have any spares you can try?

Under theory, the AEM outputs a signal to the tach. So it gets it's reading of RPM based on the cam and crank sensors, so those should be checked. Possibly could be an igniter. It's a theory, hopefully figgie can see this and chime in.

i had an issue with the CPS once before a while ago, i ohmed them and they were all with in spec, cold & hot. I re-ohmed them when i had the codes and found out 1 sensor was cracked and replaced it with a working cps.


I'm going to try another ignitor, i'm thinking of going with a 1zzfe setup if the ignitor is messed up.
 

ifyouaint1sturlast

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IBoughtASupra;1813403 said:
Hmm.

Checked the cam and crank sensors? Ohm them and see but its not the best test though. Have any spares you can try?

Under theory, the AEM outputs a signal to the tach. So it gets it's reading of RPM based on the cam and crank sensors, so those should be checked. Possibly could be an igniter. It's a theory, hopefully figgie can see this and chime in.

I think it's the igniter. Tach is directly linked to the igniter to supply RPM signal.

My vote is now officially igniter or a poor ground related to the ignition system.
 

IBoughtASupra

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That's what I would say if it was on a stock ECU but I am not sure how the AEM gets its RPM signal, if it's from the igniter or cam and crank sensors. It's why I hope figgie sees this.

I will send him a link to here.