Trouble with boost over 1bar

[topgear]

its wire troble for shure
while trying to extract log file, pc tells me that aem ems is offline, but car is working, the once it did log in and after pressing accelerator few times went offline again
where to look for a broken wire
added additional ground to the engine bay

help

(dont have enough $ to go to professionals right now)

 

[chevyeater]

You can't go by PC comms to see if the EMS is actually online or off. A good clue is the check engine light. The startup calibration for the AEM has it set to be on with the key on and engine off. If the light is off with the key on (and the settings haven't been fiddled) the EMS is likely offline. If the light is on, look at your PC, cable or USB adapter. USB adapters are notoriously unreliable. If the car is running, the EMS is definitely online and your problem is elsewhere. Also, be sure that telemetry for the AEM serial gage isn't activated in your calibration as that will block the laptop comms as well.

 

[topgear]

can it be that one of the sensors somewhere causing such thing ?
or relay?
wiering rechecked, still nothing:aigo:

 

[turbo joe]

If you're losing the ground on the fuel pump relay, it's either the ground (the wires themselves) or the thing that switches the ground on (the ECU).

You gotta roll up your sleeves and do a little of that good-old basic troubleshooting. Look for other ECU-controlled (pull-to-ground) circuits and see if you lose those as well.

You should check the 5v reference voltage (5v wire at the TPS would do) and see if that stays on during your problem...that will help to differentiate between a power supply issue (ignition circuit failure, failed ECU etc.) or a logic thing (software in the ECU deliberately switching off outputs).

 

[topgear]

had to remove all engine harness
found that under intake manifold 4 ground wires that go straight to ecu were losen:cry:
had to repair few broken wires & everything works again:love:

thank you all for help
local mechanics can only put together bimmer

 

[turbo joe]

had to remove all engine harness
found that under intake manifold 4 ground wires that go straight to ecu were losen:cry:
had to repair few broken wires & everything works again:love:

thank you all for help
local mechanics can only put together bimmer

Sweet.

Tell them we said that a real mechanic can fix anything...LOL...a car is a car. :biglaugh:

 

[topgear]

Sweet.

Tell them we said that a real mechanic can fix anything...LOL...a car is a car. :biglaugh:

I`m shure that they `ll tell me:
dont tell us what to do, and we wont tell you where to go:biglaugh:

 

[Mr. Y]

:1zhelp:
I've got the similar problem right now.
Fresh harness and AEM from Gixxer, car fired ok, idles.. Tuned low load a bit...
But _sometimes_ something strange happens: during acceleration tacho stops for a moment and then continues to rise.... Like 2300, 2400, 2500.. pause.. 2600, 2700... Yes, it looks like fuel cut.

Never then cruising. Only during accel. It may occur at 2500, may at 4500... Sometimes it doesn't occur at all (1 of 10). Enclosed gaps in CPS - didn't help. Checked grounds - they are good (added few more for any case).

So, now the questions:
1) What parameters should I log to check that AEM reads CPS correctly
2) Any ideas?

PS: I'm tuning fuel table and get 3.1 value in it e.g.... What parameters should I log to see how much fuel AEM is squirting actually... in ms.
PS2: I'll try to hook switch to make internal logs. Hope this will help to figure out problem.

EDIT: digged in AEM forums and found "30* problem" that looks like mine. So I'll try to figure out: is it sensor problem (CPS) or actuator problem (igniter). Stay tuned.

 

[Mr. Y]

some news.
Retarded all map, so max advance is 28* and problem went away but car feels soo slow.

I have 3 channel igniter left from Haltech, so how can I convert AEM to it? It is dumb igniter so AEM will be controling dwell as well... But dwell settings look complicated to me =( Some kind of angles instead of just time in milliseconds.

Anyone converted AEM p'n'p box to run non-mulpiplexed igniter? Please chime in!

PS: grabbed some internal logs before retarding timing and there were some dips in T2PER and cam-crank parameters. Misfire occured when BOTH dropped. After retarding ign, there are still some dips in T2PER or cam-crank but NOT ar the same time. Any thoughts about this?

 

[topgear]

Back to old thread,
Once again I`m haveing same old shit.

Temporarily added new ground wire straigt from negative terminal to all engine bay ground points, nothing, problem stays on.