Thoughts on FFIM's and throttle response

RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
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Close enough. Just gotta find another designer who made a better head than GM. Lots of them out there, and they may not have used a flow bench honestly.
 

black89t

boost'en down 101
Oct 27, 2007
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humboldt, ca
turbotank88;2068194 said:
Interesting. The hose nozzle likeness makes sense. I'm currently running 2.5 hardpipes myself albeit still on stock pipe routing. Really I'm not looking to push the boundaries that much, possibly high 300's-low 400's.This project is going to be mostly sliding sideways, so high horsepower isn't really necessary. With limited rpm's on the 7M I figured that torque and response would be more important by putting more emphasis of the powerband at lower revs. Unless I'm going about this the wrong way, please correct me :)

Interesting concept of setting your throttle body sideways like that. First I've see of that type of design from other 7M's I've seen, nice setup btw!

oh ok nice! with a lower hp goal making it responsive is much easier. it becomes difficult or near impossible to have a responsive setup with larger turbos. id say anything over a 62mm is going to be horrible for autox or drifting or track days cause the lag factor. that's why they have quick spool valves but you don't see them on smaller frame turbos cause you don't need one. along with other things like ffim, cast exhaust mani, ect will help spool and response.

really something as simple as a 57 trim ct26 would get you to your goal. not low 400's but mid to high 300's. the only thing i don't like about them is the exhuaust wheel and housing aren't designed to flow the amount of air the 57mm can. so it pulls hard then falls on its face around 5000rpm. a bolt on with the larger exhuast housing and wheel would be ideal. ive seen a sp6262 but thats over kill for you goal and will just contribute to more lag. a 5858 would get you to your goal nicely with a little room for more hp if you'd like but i don't know if they have a bolt on version.

or if you have the time and budget you could piece together a setup with a t3 or t4 turbo. i first had a hx35 on my na-t and it was a very responsive turbo! would work great for your goal. on 15-16 psi that will land you right around 400whp too. and they're cheap and tough which is a plus. only reason i got rid of it was cause my itch to go faster at drags and on race gas it made 476whp but dropped off power really bad in higher rpm cause it was past its efficency range. basicallly what the ct26 does trying to make 350-400whp. at autox i sure miss the response and lower rpm spool the hx35 had but its still raceable. anything bigger though and itd be like racing with a na motor in first and second gears :rofl:
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Mar 30, 2005
1,843
21
38
Victoria, BC, Canada
Just for some perspective, my car did 320rwhp/360ft-lbs with a stock turbo and a FFIM. I had other mods, but the powerband is helped a lot by the FFIM, better flowing IC, and shorter piping. If you can build your own or buy a good one for a decent amount of money, I would suggest doing it.

With more fuel and a bigger turbo (even an upgraded CT), you shouldn't have any trouble hitting 400rwhp.

thhptq.jpg
 

turbotank88

New Member
Jan 20, 2006
28
0
0
San Diego, CA
black89t;2068307 said:
oh ok nice! with a lower hp goal making it responsive is much easier. it becomes difficult or near impossible to have a responsive setup with larger turbos. id say anything over a 62mm is going to be horrible for autox or drifting or track days cause the lag factor. that's why they have quick spool valves but you don't see them on smaller frame turbos cause you don't need one. along with other things like ffim, cast exhaust mani, ect will help spool and response.

really something as simple as a 57 trim ct26 would get you to your goal. not low 400's but mid to high 300's. the only thing i don't like about them is the exhuaust wheel and housing aren't designed to flow the amount of air the 57mm can. so it pulls hard then falls on its face around 5000rpm. a bolt on with the larger exhuast housing and wheel would be ideal. ive seen a sp6262 but thats over kill for you goal and will just contribute to more lag. a 5858 would get you to your goal nicely with a little room for more hp if you'd like but i don't know if they have a bolt on version.

or if you have the time and budget you could piece together a setup with a t3 or t4 turbo. i first had a hx35 on my na-t and it was a very responsive turbo! would work great for your goal. on 15-16 psi that will land you right around 400whp too. and they're cheap and tough which is a plus. only reason i got rid of it was cause my itch to go faster at drags and on race gas it made 476whp but dropped off power really bad in higher rpm cause it was past its efficency range. basicallly what the ct26 does trying to make 350-400whp. at autox i sure miss the response and lower rpm spool the hx35 had but its still raceable. anything bigger though and itd be like racing with a na motor in first and second gears :rofl:

Good stuff black89t. Thanks for your insight! :bigthumb:

Enraged;2068405 said:
Just for some perspective, my car did 320rwhp/360ft-lbs with a stock turbo and a FFIM. I had other mods, but the powerband is helped a lot by the FFIM, better flowing IC, and shorter piping. If you can build your own or buy a good one for a decent amount of money, I would suggest doing it.

With more fuel and a bigger turbo (even an upgraded CT), you shouldn't have any trouble hitting 400rwhp.

View attachment 77677

Edit. I see that your FFIM was custom from your build thread. Interesting design.
 
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Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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RacerXJ220;2068286 said:
Close enough. Just gotta find another designer who made a better head than GM. Lots of them out there, and they may not have used a flow bench honestly.

The day the aftermarket manufactures a head for the 7M and it is a modern alloy and with a little bit thicker deck is the day I buy an aftermarket head. It only needs to flow a little bit better.
 
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RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
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You can always just turn up the boost :)

2JZ Billet heads are already being tested. Nothing is impossible, but cash flow may involve selling a house.

We are comparing oranges to apples all over the place.
 

kotu100

Active Member
Nov 23, 2006
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RacerXJ220;2068535 said:
You can always just turn up the boost :)

2JZ Billet heads are already being tested. Nothing is impossible, but cash flow may involve selling a house.

We are comparing oranges to apples all over the place.

Why can't fruit be compared?

As badass as an aftermarket 7m head would be it's never going to happen. Look at the LIPP FFIM for example.


On the topic of FFIM's how much of a difference in powerband is the intake runner ports going to have overall? More specifically the transition from the manifold's main chamber to the runners.
Ive seen some with nice transitions machined in, and i've seen others with mini velocity stacks welded in there.
Any thoughts?
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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kotu100;2068553 said:
Why can't fruit be compared?

As badass as an aftermarket 7m head would be it's never going to happen. Look at the LIPP FFIM for example.

The vast majority are making work for themselves with no gains with the FFIM. Meaning most that converted because they think it looks good and they can't change spark plugs. Pull the stock unit and send it in in for abrasive media hone and polish. If Extrude Hone can make a piece of shit stock Ford 5.0 manifold good, think what it can do with the Toyota plenum that doesn't have a distributor pushing the runners out of position.

I would swap a 2JZ engine before converting just the manifold. But that is just me. If you want to lay down 500rwhp with a 7M, that is a different story.
 

turbotank88

New Member
Jan 20, 2006
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San Diego, CA
kotu100;2068553 said:
On the topic of FFIM's how much of a difference in powerband is the intake runner ports going to have overall? More specifically the transition from the manifold's main chamber to the runners.
Ive seen some with nice transitions machined in, and i've seen others with mini velocity stacks welded in there.
Any thoughts?

This was another question I had while thinking about FFIM's. So far this thread has given me valuable info leading me to also think about other supporting factors such as turbo size and pipe routing that affect engine response and torque. There was Sethron71's thread regarding his manifolds that interested me in FFIMs in the first place.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...olds-Exhaust-Manifolds-and-other-custom-parts

Looking through the thread, most of the posts were regarding power numbers, (having shorter runners have better results for those aiming for high horsepower), but nothing regarding the actual powerband characteristics.
 

Rollus

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Jun 2, 2011
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Paris, France
Actually it seems to be a gallery so all cylinders may be feed:

a8785d3b7e05cab1411acf2cc3ecc90c.jpg
7b270080dd39085922b79ff1ba63b848.jpg
d625eb73d1eba0b589222a187df29c9f.jpg


Ha-ha [emoji2]
 

RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
1,504
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Abalama
Cylinder three and four are the only two cylinders run off the throttle body, then.

Cylinders one and two seem to be fed only from the IACV.

;)
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Mar 30, 2005
1,843
21
38
Victoria, BC, Canada
turbotank88;2068578 said:
Looking through the thread, most of the posts were regarding power numbers, (having shorter runners have better results for those aiming for high horsepower), but nothing regarding the actual powerband characteristics.

See my dyno curve above. Tons of torque down low. I did it after seeing Dr Jonez's dyno curve, huge area under the curve. Makes driving it quite fun. You can also change the powerband up/down by changing the length of the intake runners, changing the volume of the intake manifold, bellmouth/velocity stacks, etc.